Thats exactly what COMPETITION means dude, please dont start getting an attitude, we're just trying to help/correct you.

People who go into competition go in there building their car to be completely for sound, meaning they spend a LOT of money to fix it up, spending in the thousands, 2nd battery, high quality capacitors, high RMS AMPs, etc.

This is all competition stuff, what it sounds like you want is just something that sounds good and to blow out your neighbor driver's windows, not "competition".

In that case, you should reconsider your options, actually in any case, you should reconsider your options.

I'm sorry man but your plan isnt going to work out.



And next time instead of making STATEMENTS, saying that you want to buy competition style 2k+ rms amps and competition type subs for a measly 300-500 dollars, we're going to laugh at you. Instead try asking questions,

What quality subs can i get for a price range of around $300?

how high of an rms/quality amp can i get for around $300?

stuff like that.

 

You'd be surprised at the amount of cash people drop on systems without flinching.

Number one, there's not a whole lot of "true" 2000w rms amps out there. And the few there are, you can bet cost a damn pretty penny. If u're looking to push that amount of power, you would probably be better off going with two amps...one per sub.

Number two, are you looking to build show vehicle or a sound competition vehicle? There's alot of other options out there to make a car loud rather than just throwing in lots of high wattage equipment. With what you have to spend, you're probably looking at something like a 500w rms amp and maybe a couple lower end subs, or a single mid end sub. IMO, if you're looking to go "clean" both in install and sound wise...invest into a nice single 12" sub and matching amp.

 

go to circuit city, there is a kicker 1200 watt rms amp for 550 or somthing... you can even paint the end caps to match you car!!!!

 

hey wait a minute I was kidding about the pyramid amp...

 

haha I hope so, pyramids sound like crap. well thanks to all your stuff guys......I kinda understand how it goes now so I am saving up for (1) 1000/1 JL audio amp and either (1) 12w7 or (1) 13w7......I wont have it by o/t but hopefully by NOPI because or summer vacation (((MORE HOURS=MORE MONEY))))


THANKS

 

Very nice choice. I actually did that setup in a Altima, ported box...the guy said he wanted it loud, well needless to say, he ended up returning it a week later because it was too loud, put his 2 JL 12w3's back in. His roof was flexing a good 1/2".


Make sure your car's electrical system is up to par...especially if you plan on running a second amp for your other speakers (which you'll probably have to being you'll no longer hear them ). The JL 1000/1 is a true 1000w amp and I've seen them actually shut running cars off because of the current draw. Upgrading your battery and a high output alternator would really allow that amp to play at it's full potential.

 

I have a customers car here for a competition/show system. He is spending 15k on labor alone with me and another 6 to 8k in components. That should get him a very good start. I have done car that cost over 50k to the customer. If you want to compete and win you will need to spend the money.