Damn Honda's...too bad, as I could see a 'repinning kit' being sold at a shop near you...

Toby

 

yea, i know 12gauge is a bit overkill for 100watts, i'll probably settle for 14gauge.

From my exerience factory wiring just hasn't made me happy in the long run. Seems that I have to turn up amps to higher gains or higher output on the cd receiver to get the same volume. With that said, when I've upgraded my wiring, I've blown less speakers (not that its been a common occurence, after the 2nd set, I learned to upgrade wire, and turn down the gains.)

If I can get a higher signal to a speaker at a lower gain, in my mind it seems more efficient.

 

Side note, anyone have a table of what speaker wire gauages can carry what wattage?

just curious.

 

there is a tool called a skew you can get. it will help in this application and for further mods. it will give you a sharp right angle.

 

20 minutes a door and it can be done! get off your wallet and paysome to do it correctly!

 

I wasn't going to do it myself, just seeing what procedure it would be done with / make sure its decently possible.

GradeA would you post / pm a price?
Dalt, you mentioned you didn't like removal of doors, so I'm just asking questions?

 

$100 per door

 

for $200 I'll spin a paper clip by hand until it makes the holes.

A nice flex bit, something like this would prolly work

 

liability my friend - there is where the cost is, plus nowone else step up to do it - go ahead be the better man and do it for your standard rates of 2 peanuts and ball of lint.

 

As for the chart, American Wire Gauge, AWG Cable Size Description for Copper Wire Cable


According to that, a 16ga wire would present .004 ohm resistance per foot. Lets overestimate and assume 20ft of wire to each speaker. You said 100 watts RMS per speaker.

so if

I = (P/R)^(1/2)

then using the stock wire would be

(100/4.08 )^(1/2) = 4.95

There are also several connector points - the harness to door and harness to amp. which would present no more than a .1 ohm load.

(100/4.18 )^(1/2) = 4.89

While in a perfect world without any line resistance

(100/4)^(1/2) = 5


Of course, as Toby will point out this does not account for impedance but since the speaker will primarily affect impedance and the speaker line will have negligible capacitace, it is reasonable to ignore impedance as a factor.

So, back to the math, With a straight run to the speaker with no line impedance the nominal current will be 5amps at full volume. With 16ga stock wire, the nominal current will be 4.85 amps. That means that with 16ga wire you are looking at a theoretical loss of no more than 3% of total wattage until the wire heats up which is unlikely since you will probably never reach 100 watts of continuous current and a majority of the line is not bundled.


I typed this all up while watching that stupid talk show about marriage so im sure I messed up somewehre

/discuss