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Old 11-14-2008 | 07:44 AM
  #21 (permalink)  
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I'd run a red top if your just replacing your factory battery. Idk how much of a difference your gonna see though. I was saying if your adding an extra battery under the hood then run a yellow. Or if in the back of the car run a SPV stinger.
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Old 11-14-2008 | 11:06 AM
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whats the cca an ca on a red top? my ca is 660 so i would like something with a bit of a difference
Old 11-14-2008 | 12:06 PM
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Cold Cranking Amps - put the most amount or largest CCA battery your can that will fit and bolt down without shorting out the connectors,

you should also check your battery to ground resistance, then check your amp ground to battery. I find more problems with installs on the ground side and it is the most important connection in the vechile.
Old 11-14-2008 | 05:16 PM
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We actually stock a whole rack of NAPA's blue and black top gel-cell deep cycle batteries these days. They are made by the same company that manufacturers the Optimas but are priced a little better but more importantly-never fail. We installed them in our advertising F150 that sits out front of the shop or on commercial/residential tint jobs and shows with the stereo on and police strobe lights blasting all day. It cranks right up after 8 hours of abuse at least 5 days a week (we do plug it in at the shop during the day to the built-in trickle charger when we remember to-not often).

I switched to this NAPA version after having about 1 out of 4 Optimas fail in less than a year. This came under the suggestion of the regional NAPA parts manager that I bitched at. He was right as we have installed probably 12-15 of them with NO failures.

If we are dealing with a low-budget and they want a battery added in the trunk, we usually just use the Kinetic brand-largest their budget can afford.
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Old 11-15-2008 | 07:01 PM
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KINETIC FTW!!! They are like chubby capacitors.
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Old 11-16-2008 | 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Notladstyle
KINETIC FTW!!! They are like chubby capacitors.
That is kinda what I was getting at...

I do have one good story involving a Kinetic though. Our gas golf cart has a 30 amp drawing overhead fan, stereo, and massive headlamps/tailamps. A typical battery in these lasts all of 2 minutes with this kind of load and the golf cart not running. However, I changed out for the Kinetic that is a little bigger than the factory battery and now the fan can stay running for about 30 minutes without the cart running and it will still bust right off. The stereo can run for hours now with no problems. And, we can store the cart for months with the battery connected, not charging, and it starts right away. Kinetics are great for gas golf carts!
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Old 11-16-2008 | 09:52 PM
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2nd battery should make a world of difference...... i got 2 cell batteries and a 5 farad cap with my whopping 70 amp alt and it all holds up fine. i even ATTEMPT to charge my batteries once a month and after 10 mins or so it shows its all the way charged.
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Lol sorry didn't really look as good as i thought it did...but theres no need for the smart ass reply bud.

... nvm,I kinda start to expect that stuff from PnR cutomer service...
Old 11-16-2008 | 09:56 PM
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now then.. would it be easier/cheaper to do a bigger alt or bigger batt or a second battery? im pulling around 1400watts.. so about 140-150amps.. my alt is 100amp rated..
Old 11-17-2008 | 01:30 AM
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you need a bigger alternator.

try ohio gen.. unless you know of a custom builder around here.. the person whom built my alt (suncoast alt) has moved or closed up shop. in other words... i cant find him anymore.. or else i'd be saying go to him..
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Old 11-17-2008 | 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Kyleisme
now then.. would it be easier/cheaper to do a bigger alt or bigger batt or a second battery? im pulling around 1400watts.. so about 140-150amps.. my alt is 100amp rated..
I doubt you are truly pulling 140 amps off a stock charging system. There's no way your car would run for more than 30 minutes with that kind of abuse. Maybe a surge peak, but nothing continuous.
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