You can greatly exceed the amperage of a fuse without it blowing if it is a short burst and you know what your doing, besides most high wattage amps dont even have internal fusing.

 

your correct that's why most cheater amps where unfused there threshold essentially was heat. the more power the more heat created. so as long as you had a cooling system you were ok.

The reference to the fuse in my previus post was so that its a easy way to tell how much rms power an amp is able to put out realistically.

I just see way to manny "chinese"amps claiming 2500 watts with 25 amp fusses conected to them .... Im just trying to defuse some miths in car audio but its ovius most of these "kids" don't care....

 

fuses don't say much.. my 1000watt amp has a 150 on it does that mean im cranking out 1680 at 14 volts being 80% efficient?

 

if its the fuse that came with the amp, it means that's the maximum it could do according to the amount of current the factory thought it could handle....

by the way that's why good amps from reputable companies have test certificates, and its power is always more than the rated power and its not an even number .....

 

well you said rms.. I was just wondering what you meant..

 

if the factory recommended a 150 amp fuse that means the amp could generate power relative to the max it can handle. To give you an example im running an old school punch 100 in my car (circa 1995) its rated at 50 watts x 2, ive tested it at about 450 watts bridge (thats 4 ohm bridge) rms running 2 10s. its just depends on the name brand and quality of the install .....

 

DIESEL AMPS ROCK!

The only distributor I have that sells Diesel products says the return rate is only about 45%! That is EXCELLENT quality stuff! I have sold exactly (lets see, add the 2 carry the 1) ZERO of their products EVER! Since their 1000 watt amps are less than $100, I think it is just the greatest uncovered value in the 12 volt world right now!

Just be sure to buy 2 of each amp. Since chances are, the first one you put in will be bad out of the box.

We have set up an electric hose reel speaker wire system that allows us to roll it out the front door from the display board to your trunk and "test drive" subs before buying them. Problem is, we have the display board running off of JL Audio amps. Many times, if the customer is using their own "Pyramid 10,000 watt" amp already, then we sell them the subs and hook to their amp, they are pissed because it is not as loud as it was off of our display board-same speakers, same trunk, their crappy amp now. When we show them it was just a JL Audio TMA 1000.1 amp pushing it from the display, they suddenly shut up. We have now taught the lesson about manufacturer stated wattage and true wattage. Lesson learned.

I sell more JL amps this way...

Come by anytime you want and we can hook your subs to our amp-this little 1000.1 amp will beat out most even the largest "Pyramid/Lanzar/Boss, other crappy flea market amp" that you may currently have in your car. We took the "trash talk" aspect out of the equation-just real world proof! My installer came up with the idea and I think we have the only one locally. Pretty cool I think...

 

come on i like me some pyramid shit, bro that shit be hittn , and there horns sound so good!

 

no thanks im good i already got a shop i go to and nvr goin anywhere else but thats a tight ass idea for the long speaker wire from ur display board and ya anybody that belives a pyramid or boss amp for like 175 that sais it does 4000 watts doesnt know anything lol

 

Yes, the old "cast iron" Punch RF amps are nasty. They were so small but ran so hot I remember them singe-ing carpet sometimes when installed with crappy ventilation. I have a couple in the backroom that have were removed from customers vehicles with misc. problems but I have a hard time parting with them even though they're broke. I have been offered money for them but no one seems to be capable of repairing them due to discontinued special transistors or something like that. Too bad...