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Veterans First Saturday Car Show and Dinner

Putting Veterans First on First Saturday

Each month. Drop in 4PM-8PM 1600Hours-2000Hours

Veterans are invited to a car show and dinner at the 50's Diner
1730 US19 and ALT 19. 34691 Holiday FL, Next to Winn Dixie.

Take a look here:
https://carstoshow.com/registerevent...eventid=102331

If you have a hat, a shirt, a military vehicle, or just want some good conversation, we're not checking ID's. We're not charging dues. You paid your dues when you joined the military. We're not charging admission. Freedom isn't free. We know that and appreciate you. Stop by and see us. Any branch of service is welcome. Any Veterans organization is welcome. Any Veterans relative is welcome to bring your Veteran hero. You are not alone buddy. We meet every First Saturday and you are invited. There are Veteran special themes coming up monthly and we don't want you missing out.

Let us know you are coming and we can get you a card for a free BBQ sandwich on your Birthday.
Email Bobfixesitup@yahoo.com ....Mention Veterans First.

First Saturday is Veterans First at Americana 50's Diner! 10% off menu at the checkout register.
and Elvis, himself an Army Veteran, talks to you when you leave. LOL

MILITARY APPRECIATION DAYS At Mission BBQ
FREE SANDWICH for all active duty service members and veterans.

Army.............................................. .......................Monday, 5/13
Marine Corps............................................. ..........Tuesday, 5/14
Navy.............................................. ..................Wednesday, 5/15
Air Force & Space Force..................................Thursday, 5/16
Coast Guard............................................. ...............Friday, 5/17

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Win a FREE Smoker for Father's Day!

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It’s Dad’s big day, so get him what he wants: The chance to be a backyard pit boss with his own home smoker! We’re giving one away at each MISSION BBQ location. Just be sure to enter by June 15, 9:00pm EDT / 8:00pm CDT / 7:00pm MDT.

Click Here to Enter
https://mission-bbq.com/dads/?vgo_ee...Tbnz5j6cM4w3NS

We picked out a genuine heavy-gauge smoker, the next best thing to being here for authentic slow-smoked BBQ. Built to last, it’s our favorite American-made, premium grade smoker. And sure to be your Dad’s favorite gift, too.

(Just in case you’re a “do-it-yourselfer Dad,” it’s ok to enter to win one for yourself.)

Good Luck and Happy Father’s Day!
Your Friends at MISSION BBQ

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Cutting Threads: An Introduction to Using a Tap to Thread Bolt Holes

Recently while beneath a friend’s car, I noticed an abundance of zip ties used to secure everything from battery cables to taillight wires to brake lines, and everything was hanging off the fuel line. After a little arm-twisting, I convinced him we should drill and tap some holes to attach line clamps to the frame and take the stress off of his fuel line. His hesitation at first in doing so revolved around a few bad experiences with breaking taps off and holes and bolts that wouldn’t tighten up. I assured him we could get the job done without any pitfalls if we followed a few simple steps.

Threading a drilled hole may seem like an easy task, but plenty can go wrong if you don’t take the proper precautions when using hand taps. Knowing how to use a tap properly will reduce the risk of tap breakage and make the process more enjoyable.

Types of Taps

There are three common types of hand taps: taper, plug, and bottoming. The difference between them refers to the number of chamfered threads on the tap before a full-width thread on the tap. Taper taps have from eight to ten chamfered threads, whereas Plug taps have three to five threads, and bottoming taps have only one to two threads.

Taper and plug taps are most commonly used for tapping holes that go completely through the metal, and bottoming taps are used to tap “blind” holes that do not go all the way through. Plug taps are the most commonly found taps at local hardware stores and building supply centers.

What to Buy

Taps are expensive, and they are one place you should NEVER try to save a buck. Almost every car enthusiast is guilty of finding that great deal on a set of import taps, then dreading them every time a tap breaks. Here’s a few quick tips: Carbon steel taps are slightly harder than HSS (high-speed steel), although they are also more brittle and tend to dull faster. Buy high-quality USA-made taps. Most car enthusiasts should choose HSS or better. Depending on your budget, most classic car enthusiasts don’t need a full set of taps, but rather 1⁄4” to 9⁄16” in coarse and fine thread are the most common for automotive. When your taps become dull, throw them away; no good has ever come from a dull tap. I prefer taper taps over plug taps, as I can get more of the tap started in the hole and it’s easier to see that I am tapping straight into the hole.

Drilling a Hole

To create proper threads in metal, you need to first drill the correct size hole in the metal. To determine the correct-size hole to drill into the metal, you can reference the drill and tap chart at the bottom of this web page. Another method to determine the approximate size of the drill bit is to use this calculation: Subtract 1/Pitch (threads per inch) from the major diameter. That’s the tap drill size. For example: 1 / 4 – 20: 1⁄4” = 0.250. 1/20= 0.050. 0.250-0.050=0.200. You need a drill bit that is about .200″ diameter. (In this case, either a #7 or a 13/64”, which is 0.203”, will work.) An additional example is: 3 / 8 – 16: 3 / 8 – 1⁄16= 5⁄16.

Oftentimes when drilling and tapping holes on classic cars, we’re doing it in less-than-ideal circumstances, like on a car frame. But it is important to make every effort to drill the hole as squarely as possible. Often if we’ve drilled the hole crooked, we try to square it up with the tap, which results in reduced potential clamping load and holes that are bigger than the fastener. If you’re drilling and tapping smaller objects on the bench, ALWAYS secure them to the bench or use a vice.

Drill the hole into or through the metal or part while liberally applying cutting fluid to the drill bit—this will lubricate and cool the drill bit. Remember that slower RPM rates are better than faster ones. Too fast and you will damage the drill bit or maybe even your part. Next, chamfer the hole opening with a countersink. This reduces the stress on the tap and helps keep your tap starting straight. Nothing is worse for a tapped hole than starting the tap crooked. And often as not, you wobble around for a few turns. If the hole is started crooked, the hole itself will eventually try to straighten the threads. This causes more friction and increases the likelihood that the tap will break. When drilling the hole using a hand drill, always sight the drill bit from a couple different sides to get it as close to going in straight as possible.

Tapping a Hole

Select the tap that matches the size of the fastener you will be installing into the metal and secure the tap in the tee-handle tap wrench. Lubricate the tap with cutting/tapping fluid. Then place a bit of fluid on and in the hole to be tapped. Align the tap with the drilled hole and view from a couple different angles to ensure the tap is going in straight. Start threading the hole in the metal by turning the tee-handle tap wrench clockwise for a right-hand threads. Continue checking the tap to ensure it is straight with the hole. Reverse course regularly to break the swarf into manageable pieces and keep the hole clear of chips. As soon as you begin to feel resistance, back the tap out. Clearing the chips is especially important in thick material. Steel and brass form chips easily, so deep in these materials may require the tap to be backed completely out a time or two. Softer materials such as aluminum, on the other hand, can create longer swarf that must be sheared off the work piece, and may require as much as half a “back turn” for every forward turn of the tap in order to cut the pieces off short enough to be evacuated out of the hole through the flutes. During the backward action, it is often possible to hear or feel the cut piece breaking off the work piece. The smaller the tap, the more frequent reversals will be required. Ignoring this step can clog the flutes and bind the tap. Continuing forward often will break the tap.

While the slow action of hand tapping does not produce enough heat to be concerned about, lubrication is still important. Depending on the materials, using commercial tapping oil, machine oil, ATF, even water, makes a huge difference in reducing friction and stress on the taps. Sulpherized cutting oil offered at many hardware stores for pipe threading works well for tapping fluid too. For aluminum, WD40, kerosene, or fuel oil works well for threading. Added slickness will prevent binding as the tap goes in and assist evacuation of chips along the flutes.

IMPORTANT: Make sure to keep any and all pressure on the tap to a minimum. You only want to press down when starting the tap. From that point forward, you want to make sure you are only turning the tap and not leaning it from side to side or pressing down. Some taps are hard and brittle to cut difficult metals. This means that they will snap very easily—especially smaller-diameter taps.

Bolt It Up

If the threaded fastener will not thread into the hole, look for debris or metal shavings in the hole and clean them out. It is almost never necessary to re-cut the threads unless your tap is the wrong size or extremely damaged.

Tapping mounting holes is a great way to secure lines, brackets, and accessories on your classic car, and it speaks to the quality of the build. Whether they’re in the engine compartment or along the frame rail or even under the dash, a properly drilled and tapped hole is one of those details others will respect, especially when compared to the assortments of zip ties, safety wire, and even tape I’ve seen used on some cars. Take the time to do it right and you’ll never have to do it twice.

Download Your Drill and Tap Chart Guide Here:

Metric sizes Standard sizes

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Carburetor Tuning Tips

1.) How do I select the right size of carburetor?

Carburetor performance is largely based on the air speed traveling through its venturis. If they are too big, the air speed will be reduced; too small and vice versa. Probably the best instruction on carburetor choice is found in the Demon Carburetor Selection guide. It is based on camshaft duration at 0.050in of valve lift, the type of intake manifold (dual plane or single plane), and the type of transmission (manual or automatic) and stall speed. Beyond this, it is always best to discuss carburetor selection with a qualified technician.

2.) What is one of the most commonly overlooked carburetor-tuning issues?

One of the greatest obstacles faced by amateur carburetor tuners is failing to understand the essentials of initial ignition timing. Ignition timing is affected by a host of elements including fuel type, mixture strength, combustion chamber shape, compression ratio, temperature, and humidity. Bigger camshafts and larger cylinder heads with matched intake manifolds require increased ignition timing to promote better air velocity and maintain efficiency. Thus the carburetor is helpless in its plight if the initial timing is late or the timing advance curve is slow. These two potential timing impediments frequently exhibit poorer starting and drivability troubles. The ignition is always timed to fire the spark plug before the piston reaches Top Dead Center (TDC) in the cylinder. Firing before TDC is necessary because of the time it takes for the flame front to ignite the air-fuel mixture in the cylinder. Demon’s carburetor selection guide consists of helpful recommendations on ignition timing settings with consideration to things such as camshaft duration, valve lift, and other contributing factors to assist in the timing process.

When carburetor or drivability complications occur under 3,000 rpms, improper timing is usually contributing to issues such as rich idle, hesitation, or dying when switching gears and stopping.

3.) What carburetor tuning myths do tuners frequently fall victim to?

In carburetor mythology, probably the most misleading dogma involves changing jets in order to cure a rich idle setting. Carburetor main jets are tuned solely to achieve one thing: the best performance at fully open throttle. Jets should never be changed to correct an idle impediment. Instead, the idle circuit should be adjusted and the initial ignition timing re-checked. Setting the idle mixture to the highest vacuum can be achieved by using a vacuum gauge connected to the constant-vacuum port of the carburetor base plate. Slowly adjust the first idle-mixture screw. Make one adjustment only to the first screw. The adjustment should be no more than an eighth- or quarter-turn. Then leave sufficient time for the carburetor to respond and move to the next adjuster screw. Gradually work your way around the carburetor, making just one small, slow adjustment to each screw. Sloppy idle-speed adjustment is the carburetor’s number-one tuning problem. It causes the transfer slot to be overexposed and creates mayhem.

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Setting the idle mixture to the highest vacuum can be achieved using a vacuum gauge connected to the constant-vacuum port of the carburetor base plate to adjust each idle-mixture screw to its highest value. Keep moving around the carburetor, adjusting each screw an eighth- to a quarter-turn and waiting for the carburetor to respond.

Overexposure of the transfer slot at idle and insufficient initial ignition timing are the two chief causes of carburetor troubles. In the idle condition, the transfer slots should give the appearance of a small square when viewed from underneath the base plate, and ignition timing should be double-checked prior to any carburetor adjustments.

4.) Clogged jets or sloppy idle mixtures are often accused for hesitation or flooding under driving conditions, or starting and idling issues, but are there other things that could contribute to these issues?

Float adjustments are often a disregarded step of carburetor tuning, even though hesitation or an excess of black smoke from the exhaust could be the result of an improperly adjusted float level. After the idle mixture and ignition timing have been properly set, it is time to check the float levels.
With the motor running, the fuel level should be in the middle of the glass window of the fuel bowl. If it isn’t, loosen the lock screw on top of the bowl and adjust the nut clockwise to lower the float level and counter-clockwise to raise the float level. Make the adjustment by one flat of the nut at a time and wait until the carburetor has had a chance to respond. The “dry setting” is accomplished by removing the fuel bowl, and with it turned upside-down, setting the dimension between the inside top of the bowl and the top of the float at approximately 0.375 in. to 0.0400 in.Float levels are often too high; they should be placed in the middle of the fuel bowl sight glass. The initial float setting when the carburetor is being assembled at the Demon factory (the dry setting) is accomplished by removing the fuel bowl and, with it turned upside-down, setting the dimension between the inside top of the bowl and the top of the float is set at approximately 0.375 in. to 0.0400 in

5.) What are the rules for mounting a fuel pressure regulator?

Avoid mounting the fuel pressure regulator on a bulkhead or inner fender well. Instead, position it close to the carburetor. As demonstrated by any data acquisition system, the further distance the fuel pressure regulator is mounted from the carburetor, the slower its reaction time.

6.) After carburetor tuning, what final steps should be made before hitting the road?

Always start the engine and check for leaks before closing the hood. Better to repair a leaking fuel line fitting or a malfunctioning float level than to witness the paint being burned off an immaculate hood.