Wheels
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Why,.. will the rear over heat?
The rear only does 5% - 8% of the stopping under hard breaking. The fronts are what will be taking the majority of the abuse.
I've got no real experience doing auto-x or road racing other than what we did with my wife's Cobra and that was strictly at an amateur level. I found on her car that the rear rotors and pads on the car never saw any sever stress. The front stock rotors experienced stress cracks from the heat and stock style pads would glaze over after just one shared_session at the track. Swapping to drilled/slotted rotors with ceramic pads on the front cured this problem while the rears didnt need to be touched at all.
I turned 16 in 1983. I did my first auto-x course in 1986 with a 1984 Camaro. Then later with a 1973 Capri and then again a little bit with my 89 GT when it was brand new. Brake fade was a problem in the mustang, it was not from the rear drums. It was due to the small solid rotors on the front. I was more into drag racing at the time so I never looked into upgrading the brakes.
If the rear drums become a problem I will first switch to the 10" ranger drums. If that isnt enough then I'll look into rear disc options. I honestly dont see what everyone's hang up is with drum brakes. I've used them for years with good success. But in the sam regard,.. I'm not against using discs. Keep in mind we're just amateurs. Not going to be competing in any class races or major events. Just going out for open track days to have some fun. My experience with auto-x has been that the brakes dont heat up enough to justify the added expense. I've seen guys out there with $3500 braking systems do no better than guys with bone stock brakes.
Hurst
The rear only does 5% - 8% of the stopping under hard breaking. The fronts are what will be taking the majority of the abuse.
I've got no real experience doing auto-x or road racing other than what we did with my wife's Cobra and that was strictly at an amateur level. I found on her car that the rear rotors and pads on the car never saw any sever stress. The front stock rotors experienced stress cracks from the heat and stock style pads would glaze over after just one shared_session at the track. Swapping to drilled/slotted rotors with ceramic pads on the front cured this problem while the rears didnt need to be touched at all.
I turned 16 in 1983. I did my first auto-x course in 1986 with a 1984 Camaro. Then later with a 1973 Capri and then again a little bit with my 89 GT when it was brand new. Brake fade was a problem in the mustang, it was not from the rear drums. It was due to the small solid rotors on the front. I was more into drag racing at the time so I never looked into upgrading the brakes.
If the rear drums become a problem I will first switch to the 10" ranger drums. If that isnt enough then I'll look into rear disc options. I honestly dont see what everyone's hang up is with drum brakes. I've used them for years with good success. But in the sam regard,.. I'm not against using discs. Keep in mind we're just amateurs. Not going to be competing in any class races or major events. Just going out for open track days to have some fun. My experience with auto-x has been that the brakes dont heat up enough to justify the added expense. I've seen guys out there with $3500 braking systems do no better than guys with bone stock brakes.
Hurst
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Originally Posted by Tiffiny
"We all heart the Hurst"
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Joined: Mar 2008
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I just posted that pic to show an extreme example of what can fit if done correctly. Both of the cars below are on 18" wheels. They dont look too bad. Will suck for drag racing,.. but for what my wife wants to do should do very well.
Hurst
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Originally Posted by Tiffiny
"We all heart the Hurst"
