VOD

awesome...i like the step by step look at a turbo build..how long does it take to mock up and weld the manifold and is it a 1st shot and its done or do u have toss some manifolds..either way your shop is top notch...

DAMPACHI

You cant see in the pics but there isnt a hole in the frame rail.

MrLHT

Some more pictures will be up soon.
Thanks for everyones comments.

Here's some tips when assembling the turbo and manifold. We recomend you use red loctite and lock washers on the bolts holding the turbo to the manifold. These have a habbit of comming loose and there impossible to replace when everything is assembled. We also recomend you replace the exhaust gasket with a new OEM dual layer ( 94 GSR) which has better sealing qualities than the single layer.
You will not need a gasket between manifold and the turbo if the surfaces are 100% true. We always surface the turbo flange and manifold to be sure.
Next , the downpipe. We also surface the downpipe flange and the surface of the turbo. We use HTV ( The red high temp silicone) between the flange and turbo. We recomend the use of antiseize on the bolts for the downpipe. Use high grade bolts ( Not stainless ) and re-torque after a heat cycle.
Another must is a downpipe brace. The downpipe brace needs to be on the back side of the downpipe before the flex joint near the factory O2. This way the downpipe is secure and the flex joint does it's job , Most downpipes crack because there is no brace and the whole exhaust system transfers weight on the downpipe.Even the factory Honda exhaust manifolds have 2 braces, It;s takes a little more time but it's worth it for reliability.

elguluso

nice

MrLHT

Here's a couple of pixs of some TLC clean upp work. This makes a big differance on the finished product. We used Simple green and a soft scrub bush on the valve cover, Repainted the spark plug cover and replaced the crappy wires with NGK. ( These are proven on many 600+ WHP cars, Don't get suckered into buying 8mm and 9 mm funny colored wires)

Also you can see the exhaust system that was removed , We will be replacing it with our 3" full Stainless mandrel bent exhaust. Ours should look a little nicer and the welds a little smaller.......




There exhaust was a typical " Muffler shop special" exhaust, It uses crush bent 2.5" piping and theres no joins . We had to cut the exhaust for removal.

Elsombradelsol

I'm telling all of you guys that LHT is the REAL deal! If anybody has any questions that John doesn't have time to answer or questions about what else has been done to the car, just ask me, seeing that this is my car. I haven't gotten my car back from the shop yet and I still can't stop singing LHT's praises.
Micah

MrLHT

Here's the exhaust ready for install. It is made from 304L Stainless and follows the lines under the car correctly. ei has a 90 deg followed 2 45 deg bends.
The muffler was finished off with a 4" slass cut tip which keeps the shape of the bumper.



Side by side shot. New V old.

YARO

mega sick work on the welding again!!

MrLHT

These are the pictures of the exhaust installed on the car, The tip is cut to match the angle of the bumper.

cubanprince1

nice heh