My 13b build blunders
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My 13b build blunders
So this is me being bored and recapping all the mistakes i have made on my 1st rotary build.
Things to keep in mind, this will not be in any particular order, cuz thats just not how my brain functions, im tired, pissed off, and bored.
So i decided to go Turbo. Read allot of threads on various forums and talked with local guys who have done the swap/build and such with success. I bought all the pieces and dove right in. Here it is a week and a day after i parked the car. Its still not running properly. Between the rain and the waiting on parts to arrive that i couldnt(didnt wanna) fabricate, its really only been a few days worth of work, and the things that have been plauging me are very stupid minor details that i knew would be [problems and yet for some reason didnt hammer down and fix in the early stages. So to start off... T2 gaskets are a must for the intake manifold. Thats a no brainer right? Your putting a T2 intake on... why would you not use a T2 manifold gasket?
Next lesson learned... theres a reason blockoff plates available are as much as they are... its cuz 16 gauge sheetmetal isnt thick enough to seal without leaking! 1/8 inch aluminum stock might not be think enough either, tho there is some debate about this. Might as well man up and get 1/4 inch aluminum stock and eliminate all questions and concerns with sealing issues. Use a jig saw or plasma cutter if you have one avaialable to cut out the plates. Dont get caught up on the design, just make sure it successfully covers the holes and mounts flush against the mounting surface. Use a drill or drill press to make the bolt holes. Make a gasket and instll plates. Tighten and check for leaks.
Some people see this differently, and to this i will say to each their own. I will no longer use RTV to create gaskets, or "attach" gaskets properly to the matting surface when installing parts. Just get a roll of gasket paper, cut to fit, and be done with it. Much cleaner, more professional, and more reliable. These are simply my opinions... I DO NOT CARE WHAT YOU THINK< ITS MY THREAD! MAKE YOUR OWN RTV THREAD!
OMP lines are old and brittle and difficult to get off the LIM without breaking, or atleast mine were. Once broken you can either fix the lines, or run pre mix... I opted for pre mix as it was the easier faster solution for the time being.
BOV's should not constantly vent exhaust air to the atmosphere... If it does so, you have a problem.... Its called a "blow off" valve for a reason. If it was a "Venting" valve it would be a different story.
Food for thought, Front covers are paired with the timing pulleys. Using a diff pulley / cover combination will alter your degree reading by as lil as 1 degree or by alot! pulleys only line up to the hub on the ecentric shaft in one position (atleast mine did) and that puts TDC way off the mark! The simple, commonly excepted manner in which to do timing is as follows. FIND A WAY TO KEEP THE CLUTCH ENGAGED ANYTIME YOU REMOVE THE ECENTRIC SHAFT BOLT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! this is to prevent thrust bearing damage and so on. Once the bolt is removed (dont take the pulley, 4 bolts, off the front bolt! it make life a PITA!), ensure that the keyway is at the 9 o clock position. reinstall the bolt (pulley should still be attached) and the leading (yellow) factory timing mark should be at 12 o clock. If it is not then you have issues, like me.... You can find TDC by using a flashlight and a small mirror. Remove rear iron plugs, both leading and trailing. Using the flash light and mirror, have someone slowly turn the engine over until you see the apex seal cross through the trailing plug (top hole) on the rear iron. Align the seal in the center of the hole, and use a small paint marker or chaulk stick to mark the pulley as it lines with the pointer on the cover. Continue rotating the engine over until that same apex seal crosses through the leading (rear) hole. Line the seal in the center and mark the pulley same as you did previously. My measurements were 9 1/4 inches between marks. TDC is the center between the two marks, in my case, that was 4 5/8ths inches from each mark. Remeber that timing advances with engine rpm, so timing should be set BTDC (retarded). I feel like im forgetting something right now, soi may come back to it or i may not.. pends on if i remember. oh yeah... i still need to establish safe timing for the 13bt...
When stabbing the CAS, make sure the key is not in the on position or the engine will turn over while rotating the CAS gear to align the marks... then you have to re set the pulley back at TDC. The CAS alignment is pretty simple. You will see a small hole with no threads in it and several other small holes with threads in it. The threadless hole will be offset closer to the mark on the CAS. This is the hole you want to align with the mark! now before you go thinking that your ready to stab it down in the whole, take a look down at the gears under the CAS lid. Look down at the screw heads inside the top of the CAS. You will see 2 magnets. one on the left (raised) and one on the right (lowered). Just below the left and above the right you will see a small black square, on both the left (raised) and righ (lowered) side. The pointer on the top of the CAS gear ( the 2 teeth longer than the rest, seperated by 180*) should point just blow the raised square (left side) and just above the lowered square (right side). Now make sure everything else is still correct... keyway, TDC, ETC. and stab the CAS carefully down into the hole. The teeth should mesh right up and thus you now have properly aligned the ignitin system. Congrats.
Simple way to set your TPS (s4 only, s5 has 2 TPS). Step one, grab multimeter, set to 20ohms. Step two, disconnect the TPS clip. Step three, Black multi meter probe inserted into black wire on clip (TPS Side) and red wire inserted into green wire with stripe (on TPS side). Step four, Read meassured ohms on multimeter. Step five, adjust screw on throttle shaft CLOSEST to the TPS sensor. Step six, ensure resting throttle Ohms are at 1k-Ohm. Step seven, while monitoring the multimeter, open the throttle by hand to WOT (wide open throttle) and ensure the Ohms sweep from 1k to between 4-6k-Ohms. Anything over 6k-Ohms is BAD! Keep in mind that this is being done on a car with no emmisions. If you still have cold start and all that good stuff, make sure the car is properly warmed up before setting the TPS.
Always remember to disconnect the battery before working on the car, especially if you are dealing with grounds, hot wires, anything electrical. I had to buy a new main fuse due to this. Also, make sure that your 4 main grounds are clean, and properly tight and grounded. If not, all sorts of crazy things will occur.
This is all i have to say for the moment, but im sure i will be back to update more stuff here shortly as it pops into my brain.
Things to keep in mind, this will not be in any particular order, cuz thats just not how my brain functions, im tired, pissed off, and bored.
So i decided to go Turbo. Read allot of threads on various forums and talked with local guys who have done the swap/build and such with success. I bought all the pieces and dove right in. Here it is a week and a day after i parked the car. Its still not running properly. Between the rain and the waiting on parts to arrive that i couldnt(didnt wanna) fabricate, its really only been a few days worth of work, and the things that have been plauging me are very stupid minor details that i knew would be [problems and yet for some reason didnt hammer down and fix in the early stages. So to start off... T2 gaskets are a must for the intake manifold. Thats a no brainer right? Your putting a T2 intake on... why would you not use a T2 manifold gasket?
Next lesson learned... theres a reason blockoff plates available are as much as they are... its cuz 16 gauge sheetmetal isnt thick enough to seal without leaking! 1/8 inch aluminum stock might not be think enough either, tho there is some debate about this. Might as well man up and get 1/4 inch aluminum stock and eliminate all questions and concerns with sealing issues. Use a jig saw or plasma cutter if you have one avaialable to cut out the plates. Dont get caught up on the design, just make sure it successfully covers the holes and mounts flush against the mounting surface. Use a drill or drill press to make the bolt holes. Make a gasket and instll plates. Tighten and check for leaks.
Some people see this differently, and to this i will say to each their own. I will no longer use RTV to create gaskets, or "attach" gaskets properly to the matting surface when installing parts. Just get a roll of gasket paper, cut to fit, and be done with it. Much cleaner, more professional, and more reliable. These are simply my opinions... I DO NOT CARE WHAT YOU THINK< ITS MY THREAD! MAKE YOUR OWN RTV THREAD!
OMP lines are old and brittle and difficult to get off the LIM without breaking, or atleast mine were. Once broken you can either fix the lines, or run pre mix... I opted for pre mix as it was the easier faster solution for the time being.
BOV's should not constantly vent exhaust air to the atmosphere... If it does so, you have a problem.... Its called a "blow off" valve for a reason. If it was a "Venting" valve it would be a different story.
Food for thought, Front covers are paired with the timing pulleys. Using a diff pulley / cover combination will alter your degree reading by as lil as 1 degree or by alot! pulleys only line up to the hub on the ecentric shaft in one position (atleast mine did) and that puts TDC way off the mark! The simple, commonly excepted manner in which to do timing is as follows. FIND A WAY TO KEEP THE CLUTCH ENGAGED ANYTIME YOU REMOVE THE ECENTRIC SHAFT BOLT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! this is to prevent thrust bearing damage and so on. Once the bolt is removed (dont take the pulley, 4 bolts, off the front bolt! it make life a PITA!), ensure that the keyway is at the 9 o clock position. reinstall the bolt (pulley should still be attached) and the leading (yellow) factory timing mark should be at 12 o clock. If it is not then you have issues, like me.... You can find TDC by using a flashlight and a small mirror. Remove rear iron plugs, both leading and trailing. Using the flash light and mirror, have someone slowly turn the engine over until you see the apex seal cross through the trailing plug (top hole) on the rear iron. Align the seal in the center of the hole, and use a small paint marker or chaulk stick to mark the pulley as it lines with the pointer on the cover. Continue rotating the engine over until that same apex seal crosses through the leading (rear) hole. Line the seal in the center and mark the pulley same as you did previously. My measurements were 9 1/4 inches between marks. TDC is the center between the two marks, in my case, that was 4 5/8ths inches from each mark. Remeber that timing advances with engine rpm, so timing should be set BTDC (retarded). I feel like im forgetting something right now, soi may come back to it or i may not.. pends on if i remember. oh yeah... i still need to establish safe timing for the 13bt...
When stabbing the CAS, make sure the key is not in the on position or the engine will turn over while rotating the CAS gear to align the marks... then you have to re set the pulley back at TDC. The CAS alignment is pretty simple. You will see a small hole with no threads in it and several other small holes with threads in it. The threadless hole will be offset closer to the mark on the CAS. This is the hole you want to align with the mark! now before you go thinking that your ready to stab it down in the whole, take a look down at the gears under the CAS lid. Look down at the screw heads inside the top of the CAS. You will see 2 magnets. one on the left (raised) and one on the right (lowered). Just below the left and above the right you will see a small black square, on both the left (raised) and righ (lowered) side. The pointer on the top of the CAS gear ( the 2 teeth longer than the rest, seperated by 180*) should point just blow the raised square (left side) and just above the lowered square (right side). Now make sure everything else is still correct... keyway, TDC, ETC. and stab the CAS carefully down into the hole. The teeth should mesh right up and thus you now have properly aligned the ignitin system. Congrats.
Simple way to set your TPS (s4 only, s5 has 2 TPS). Step one, grab multimeter, set to 20ohms. Step two, disconnect the TPS clip. Step three, Black multi meter probe inserted into black wire on clip (TPS Side) and red wire inserted into green wire with stripe (on TPS side). Step four, Read meassured ohms on multimeter. Step five, adjust screw on throttle shaft CLOSEST to the TPS sensor. Step six, ensure resting throttle Ohms are at 1k-Ohm. Step seven, while monitoring the multimeter, open the throttle by hand to WOT (wide open throttle) and ensure the Ohms sweep from 1k to between 4-6k-Ohms. Anything over 6k-Ohms is BAD! Keep in mind that this is being done on a car with no emmisions. If you still have cold start and all that good stuff, make sure the car is properly warmed up before setting the TPS.
Always remember to disconnect the battery before working on the car, especially if you are dealing with grounds, hot wires, anything electrical. I had to buy a new main fuse due to this. Also, make sure that your 4 main grounds are clean, and properly tight and grounded. If not, all sorts of crazy things will occur.
This is all i have to say for the moment, but im sure i will be back to update more stuff here shortly as it pops into my brain.
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you never saw it coming
Last edited by NI_racing; 08-10-2010 at 07:50 AM.
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engine, not motor
engine, not motor
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^ just sell it and buy a luxury car, like you were planning 2 weeks ago.
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All Day
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Also the yellow timing mark refers to 5* ATDC and the other mark is 15* ATDC. As I said before there is no TDC.
NI_racing i sent you a link to a rx7 Factory Service Manual or RX7 workshop manual whatever you feel like calling it (FUCK haynes manual!) on the other thread. Here it is again.
RotaryHeads.com - 2nd Gen RX-7 PDF Technical Manuals FC3S
Mazda RX-7 Reference Materials
Check it out itll blow your mind to shit!
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Some people see what they want to see, but some others see what is. The world of appearance is more appealing than reality to many.
Some people see what they want to see, but some others see what is. The world of appearance is more appealing than reality to many.
All Day
Joined: Jul 2010
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^ yeah...get a hold to one of those so i can steal it and fit more than 1 chic..lol
__________________
Some people see what they want to see, but some others see what is. The world of appearance is more appealing than reality to many.
Some people see what they want to see, but some others see what is. The world of appearance is more appealing than reality to many.
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lol you guys. So new update, cracked lobe on the LIM.... need to take it to get aluminum welded. Hopefully that will be taken care of today so i can put it back together and get the shit running/tunned.
areexseven: I know what the stock marks are for the NA. And that the degrees are every 1 mm on the pulley so finding TDC isnt hard, nor is marking the pulley. I just havent figured out stock timing in degrees for the T2 yet... and i forgot you shot me a link to the manual... im gonna have to check that out! thanks. As of now im usu=ing the Haynes manual for a coaster
areexseven: I know what the stock marks are for the NA. And that the degrees are every 1 mm on the pulley so finding TDC isnt hard, nor is marking the pulley. I just havent figured out stock timing in degrees for the T2 yet... and i forgot you shot me a link to the manual... im gonna have to check that out! thanks. As of now im usu=ing the Haynes manual for a coaster
__________________
Tampa Bay Rotary Owners Club Member # 4
__________________
PIT KREW
TEAM MEMBER
________________
Team Decep!
you never saw it coming
Tampa Bay Rotary Owners Club Member # 4
__________________
PIT KREW
TEAM MEMBER
________________
Team Decep!
you never saw it coming
