i got my car running, but at idle it can stay running at all. once i get the idle up a little it will idle fine, but it can idle by itself, also when i disconnect the mas it runs on its own. it can move and it moves like normal, but it wont idle worth crap. maybe i can use dsmlink to find out whats goin on?

 

Check the timing.

 

wouldnt the timing have to be horribly off to really affect it at idle?


and wouldnt it miss up top if it was off?

or am I just used to 8cylinders?

 

well my 6-bolt motor was off about two teeth and it idled very rough. When i gave it gas it would smooth out though.

 

I've had them jump anywhere from 2-5 teeth and you can notice the difference. Once on top everything seems to be running smooth but it will idle like shit. You can connect a datalogger and watch/record your timing advance. Thats one way to figure it out. Timing might be fine up top but I would check the crankshaft sprocket as well.

Could be a timing issue like it was mentioned. Did you buy a OEM Mitsubishi replacement belt (Dealer or dealer source). Or did you buy a supposely OEM spec aftermarket belt? Usually aftermarket belts tend to stretch and will jump teeth. I have had this happen to me twice in previous 1g's with 6 bolts in them.

 

I don't know what you've done with this car lately, but if, as everyone is indicating, you've installed a new timing belt, if you don't set the tension properly you're car won't idle well even if the timing is spot on.

 

its an oem belt. and i have dsmlink so i can look at the timing. the tension seems right though, how can i tell if the tension is right?isnt it auto tenstioned? its nice and tight, but not crazy tight. and the cam timing is spot on. oh and to set base timing, do i turn the CAS?

 

well im gonna get a timing light over here and im gonna set the base timing, make sure thats good. it really seems like the timing is retarded.

 

I'm referring to the valve timing, not the ignition timing (not to say that the ignition timing isn't the problem). How did you set the tension (what did you use when you rocked the tensioner pulley before releasing the auto tensioner)?

EDIT: I just read your other thread and saw that you have a six-bolt swap. If your CAS is centered, more or less, and you can't adjusted your BISS so that the car idles at 700-1000 rpms upon cold start-up, but when the engine's warm it will idle in this range fine, I'd check your timing. I think either you're off a tooth or two, or your belt is loose.

 

i think its the ignition timing, cause the timing belt is right on, i guess i can check it right now, but when the engine was out of the car the timing was perfect, i spun it 6 times, waited 15 minutes, spun it 6 times again, still good. i got a timing light comin over tomorrow, then we can see, and can i set base ignition timing on DSMlink? or do i set that by twisting the CAS? ive never had to mess with any of this stuff before so help me out