Wait, so it puffs some smoke when you first start it and when you accelerate from a stop after idling for a while, as in accelerating from a light? And not at other times? Have you done a compression test? Those symptoms sound more like valve stem seals and possibly valve guides. Maybe start off with a quick compression test and a $30 set of valve stem seals before you go rebuilding the engine, unless you have some other reason to believe it's blown.

 

That's great, but at this point, without any testing, it's just a nice sounding idea. What of all the other nice sounding ideas that turned out to be bull-sh*t? Maybe this will become the turd that tops the pile.

Until your idea is tested, it's just a nice sounding idea. The tests are necessary to form a reasonable conclusion (as science teaches us).

The contention here, then, is not that you're wrong, but that your claim that you're right is as hasty a claim as I've ever seen. Let the evidence come in...

 

150-140 at lowest..

WARM motor.

 

there is not that many part as you may make it seam and most of the parts that you need will just bolt on to the 1g from the 2g.the ignition misfire or random misfire can be cured by switching to black top cas or spending 2 dollars on a volume controller switch from radio shack. I used the volume switch for two year before I got dsmlink with no problem.

I have read in a dsm forum of a poor dsm’er who spent allot money on his seven bolt project and purchased everything from a nitrated crank to the Main Bearing Cap Alignment Dowel kit he made a thread to tell everyone the his car was done and he was going to the dyno the next day, everyone wished him luck........ It walked.

Magnus Motorsports read read read!

 

Good old 6 bolts FTW. I had one last me 230,000 miles and another 201,000 miles. None suffered from crankwalk... just other causes.

 

Juan you know my opinion. we argue it all the time. But does anyone think that the later 3 piece thrust bearing has anything to do with preventing crankwalk? Im still all about the nitraded crank. When it comes time for me to pick one up from Jerry I will be calling him.
I know that my motor in my car had 80k on it when I bought it. I put an additional 55k on it. And a good 50k of it was with out the clutch pedal switch mod. A week before I spun a rod bearing the BROTHERS checked the crank for end play and there was no signs of the crankwalking.
All that im saying is that nitrading and the three piece bearing in the later 98 99 blocks is the 7 bolt I would go with.

 

what does John S.. Brent R. and all of those other big name people run ?

 

They all run 6 bolts.
But in defense of the 7 bolt. There are two 7 bolt EVOs in the 8`s now.

 

honda motors FTW

 

I got a better idea. Why dont you run your six bolts with cut cranks. Make sure the thrust has been cut oversize as well. Then run it like that without the nitrided coating. Then let everyone know how long it takes to crankwalk or spin a bearing.

Anyone who builds a 6 bolt knows not to use a cut crank. The factory manual says "do not cut journals undersize or the surface coating will be lost" . Factory does not sell oversize bearings for 1g cranks. However the 2g manual says its okay to cut the crank. And they do sell oversize bearings for the 2g motors.