Pics of my setup
Pics of my setup
Its been awhile since I have posted pics of anything not that you guys are familar with my setup anyway. Not sure about you guys, but I enjoy looking at any DSM setup just for the fun of it.
Quick run down. Car had a 7-bolt with 148K miles. T25, few bolt ons, 15psi, ect. Cracked a valve in the head, got that fixed and upgraded to a bit of a 50trim setup, which was missing a few links like a clutch and other things. Ran that for 10psi for a couple month just to be safe and have a car to drive. Get a logger finally and bumped it up to 15psi. A week later it starts rod knocking.
Its been 16 months since its ran and I have finally got it back together. Finally got to do the 6-bolt swap too. I have a LOT of pics that I can post upon request but here is the finished product. Going to take that heatwrap off... and this was before it was cranked up so disregard the stuff laying around or caps missing
and the ricer side of me...my gauges I spent forever installing lol. I need to get another pic of the interior all done. I mounted the steering wheel hub "stack" as I call it and my SAFC and stuff
-THE LIST-
Engine:
-1G 6-Bolt bottom end
-2G 7-Bolt head
-Removed A/C
-Removed charcoal canister
-Removed cruise control
-Battery relocation
-AGP RS49T "50-Trim" Turbo
-AGP Wastegate actuator
-FIC 650cc Injectors
-Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator w/gauge
-Walboro 255 High Pressure Fuel Pump
-Forced Performance 4" Intake
-Tubular O2 housing
-Slimline radiator fan
-Apex'i 3" downpipe
-Apex'i 3" exhaust w/4.5" tip
-Greddy Type-S Blow Off Valve
-Apex'i S-AFC II Black
-Greddy Big 24R Frount Mount Intercooler
-Greddy Upper and Lower intercooler pipes
-Competition Stage 4 clutch (sprung 6 puck)
-Fidanza Lightweight Flywheel
-Vibrant Performance couplers
-Vibrant Performance t-bolt clamps
-Forced Performance FP2 cams
-Snow Performance Stage 2 Methanol Injection
Engine Managemnet and Electronics:
-2G data logger
-EPROM ECU (chipped)
-Burned chip for 680s
-SAFCII Black (listed above)
-PLX M-300 Wideband
-Greddy Profec B SpecII electronic boost controller
-Greddy Turbo Timer
-ProSport electrical Boost gauge (30/30)
-ProSport electrical Oil Pressure gauge
-ProSport electrical Air/Fuel
-ProSport electrical Volt meter gauge
-Prosport electrical Fuel Pressure gauge
Exterior:
-PAINT not vinyl wooo! .....not, can't wait to repaint it stock again
-full 97-99 eclipse conversion
Interior:
-new black carpet
-painted interior trim pieces (base coat/clear coat. not spray paint)
-SPARCO Torino racing seats (black on black)
-SPARCO 3 point racing harness
-no back seat
-triple pillar gauge pod
-dual cluster pod
-Reverse glo gauges (cluster)
-Trust weighted shift knob
Suspension:
-Tokico shocks
-front and rear strut bar
-2" lowering springs
-Megan Racing upper strut tower brace
-Vibrant Performance rear strut bar
Quick run down. Car had a 7-bolt with 148K miles. T25, few bolt ons, 15psi, ect. Cracked a valve in the head, got that fixed and upgraded to a bit of a 50trim setup, which was missing a few links like a clutch and other things. Ran that for 10psi for a couple month just to be safe and have a car to drive. Get a logger finally and bumped it up to 15psi. A week later it starts rod knocking.
Its been 16 months since its ran and I have finally got it back together. Finally got to do the 6-bolt swap too. I have a LOT of pics that I can post upon request but here is the finished product. Going to take that heatwrap off... and this was before it was cranked up so disregard the stuff laying around or caps missing
and the ricer side of me...my gauges I spent forever installing lol. I need to get another pic of the interior all done. I mounted the steering wheel hub "stack" as I call it and my SAFC and stuff
-THE LIST-
Engine:
-1G 6-Bolt bottom end
-2G 7-Bolt head
-Removed A/C
-Removed charcoal canister
-Removed cruise control
-Battery relocation
-AGP RS49T "50-Trim" Turbo
-AGP Wastegate actuator
-FIC 650cc Injectors
-Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator w/gauge
-Walboro 255 High Pressure Fuel Pump
-Forced Performance 4" Intake
-Tubular O2 housing
-Slimline radiator fan
-Apex'i 3" downpipe
-Apex'i 3" exhaust w/4.5" tip
-Greddy Type-S Blow Off Valve
-Apex'i S-AFC II Black
-Greddy Big 24R Frount Mount Intercooler
-Greddy Upper and Lower intercooler pipes
-Competition Stage 4 clutch (sprung 6 puck)
-Fidanza Lightweight Flywheel
-Vibrant Performance couplers
-Vibrant Performance t-bolt clamps
-Forced Performance FP2 cams
-Snow Performance Stage 2 Methanol Injection
Engine Managemnet and Electronics:
-2G data logger
-EPROM ECU (chipped)
-Burned chip for 680s
-SAFCII Black (listed above)
-PLX M-300 Wideband
-Greddy Profec B SpecII electronic boost controller
-Greddy Turbo Timer
-ProSport electrical Boost gauge (30/30)
-ProSport electrical Oil Pressure gauge
-ProSport electrical Air/Fuel
-ProSport electrical Volt meter gauge
-Prosport electrical Fuel Pressure gauge
Exterior:
-PAINT not vinyl wooo! .....not, can't wait to repaint it stock again
-full 97-99 eclipse conversion
Interior:
-new black carpet
-painted interior trim pieces (base coat/clear coat. not spray paint)
-SPARCO Torino racing seats (black on black)
-SPARCO 3 point racing harness
-no back seat
-triple pillar gauge pod
-dual cluster pod
-Reverse glo gauges (cluster)
-Trust weighted shift knob
Suspension:
-Tokico shocks
-front and rear strut bar
-2" lowering springs
-Megan Racing upper strut tower brace
-Vibrant Performance rear strut bar
Last edited by Dain; 12-11-2007 at 10:34 AM.
Nice list, and I dont see nothing wrong with the header wrap, hell throw a heat shield on top of that! I have header wrap on my Dp...
As far as your 7bolt blowing, what was the reason you got rod knock?
A few things that may help you keep an engine-
*wideband
*logger ( I saw you had those.)
*running correct fluids
*conservative tunes/ knock free
*knock buzzer or light that goes off at a preset amount of knock so you can let off the gas the second you hear/or see it..
( I happen to have a knock buzzer hooked up by a friend, its hooked up to the purge solenoid goes off whenever my ecu trips 10counts of knock. Audiable enough to hear at WOT. I dont ever trip it though which is a good thing. I mean, who has time to check their logger or laptop all the time, IF its even hooked up at the momment you had knock.)
But also, says you have a chip tune. Its only compensating for injectors?
Nothing else? No 2step, no lift to shift, air fuel ratio/ timing adjustments?
You could also have your chip set up to turn your cel on after certain amount of knock!
I dont think your going to blow your motor by the way, Just some tips from me to you !
As far as your 7bolt blowing, what was the reason you got rod knock?
A few things that may help you keep an engine-
*wideband
*logger ( I saw you had those.)
*running correct fluids
*conservative tunes/ knock free
*knock buzzer or light that goes off at a preset amount of knock so you can let off the gas the second you hear/or see it..
( I happen to have a knock buzzer hooked up by a friend, its hooked up to the purge solenoid goes off whenever my ecu trips 10counts of knock. Audiable enough to hear at WOT. I dont ever trip it though which is a good thing. I mean, who has time to check their logger or laptop all the time, IF its even hooked up at the momment you had knock.)
But also, says you have a chip tune. Its only compensating for injectors?
Nothing else? No 2step, no lift to shift, air fuel ratio/ timing adjustments?
You could also have your chip set up to turn your cel on after certain amount of knock!
I dont think your going to blow your motor by the way, Just some tips from me to you !
__________________
Officially Dsmless...
"America remains one nation, under drugs, indivisible, with perceived liberty and sickness for all." - Shane Ellison
Officially Dsmless...
"America remains one nation, under drugs, indivisible, with perceived liberty and sickness for all." - Shane Ellison
Last edited by Black_Bullet; 12-11-2007 at 03:29 PM.
Black Bullet:
Well I posted these pics on DSMtalk and a guy was talking about the wrap being bad for the stock cast mani. I asked for some information on it and read a lot about the cast manifold being so thick and insulated already that the heat wrap messes with teh EGTs. Your input? Still going to order one of those SBR or JMF heat shields. I did that wrap mainly to keep the heat from my engine bay and my CF hood from crackingany more than it already is
The 7-bolt... who knows why it went. I didn't know as much as I did now nor did I have the proper equiptment to be "modding" and running like I did haha.
The buzzer. This is the second time I have heard about this. Would LOVE some more information on it to read up. I REALLY want to be able to read knock and would like to know how this buzzer works, how to install, difficulty level, ect.
The chip, I don't know much about either...can't argue with free haha. It is burned for 680s and its much better/easier to have to tune/compensate for 30cc as opposed to dealing with 200cc on the stock ECU. The 2 step is set at 3500. Which is low for me but it was on a FWD car. Not sure about the rest of it.
Blow the motor...eh I doubt it will happen unless is just something stupid. I am too cautious of a driver (ragging on the car wise). Its now that I don't have confidence in my work or parts, its that I hate to spend as much time, money, and effort into my car just to have it be down for as long as it has again.
______________________________________
JR:
Yea it was a little overwhelming on start up haha. But its like Doctor D said, most aren't to look at all the time though I probably will "scan" over them a lot because I am paranoid. The volt meter...eh not that important but still not bad to have. Coolant temp...I like having it but its not something to always look at unless its the middle of summer and I am sitting in traffic. Oil pressure...I will probably watch this one like a hawk haha. Boost...self explanitory. Air/Fuel ratio...just to fill the hole I had left, plus it moves around a lot so it makes people do that "oooo ahhhh" thing
__________________________________
Doctor D:
Thanks man! I REALLY wanted to move it and sat for hours trying to wiggle it around somewhere and it fit right in there. That greddy pipe sits up just a little bit too high and I think my hood was hitting on it before. Only prob is getting that cover off but I have a few ideas to get it off easier if it becomes a problem.
_____________________________
All in all I am very happy with how it turned out. I have had so much stuff running through my head about the whole deal and wondered how it would be when done. I did as much as I could to have a CLEAN engine bay without jeopordizing functionality. I will admit, I still want to be able to pop my hood and have people compliment it. The battery reolcation and wiring I have going on took me forever to draw up adn understand but it all works and I am thankful for that
I learn more and more about cars, my car, and mechanics in general each time my car breaks and i just take the initiative to fix it myself (also too broke to pay someone to do it haha). If I don't know how to do something, I READ READ READ and READ some more.
Well I posted these pics on DSMtalk and a guy was talking about the wrap being bad for the stock cast mani. I asked for some information on it and read a lot about the cast manifold being so thick and insulated already that the heat wrap messes with teh EGTs. Your input? Still going to order one of those SBR or JMF heat shields. I did that wrap mainly to keep the heat from my engine bay and my CF hood from crackingany more than it already is
The 7-bolt... who knows why it went. I didn't know as much as I did now nor did I have the proper equiptment to be "modding" and running like I did haha.
The buzzer. This is the second time I have heard about this. Would LOVE some more information on it to read up. I REALLY want to be able to read knock and would like to know how this buzzer works, how to install, difficulty level, ect.
The chip, I don't know much about either...can't argue with free haha. It is burned for 680s and its much better/easier to have to tune/compensate for 30cc as opposed to dealing with 200cc on the stock ECU. The 2 step is set at 3500. Which is low for me but it was on a FWD car. Not sure about the rest of it.
Blow the motor...eh I doubt it will happen unless is just something stupid. I am too cautious of a driver (ragging on the car wise). Its now that I don't have confidence in my work or parts, its that I hate to spend as much time, money, and effort into my car just to have it be down for as long as it has again.
______________________________________
JR:
Yea it was a little overwhelming on start up haha. But its like Doctor D said, most aren't to look at all the time though I probably will "scan" over them a lot because I am paranoid. The volt meter...eh not that important but still not bad to have. Coolant temp...I like having it but its not something to always look at unless its the middle of summer and I am sitting in traffic. Oil pressure...I will probably watch this one like a hawk haha. Boost...self explanitory. Air/Fuel ratio...just to fill the hole I had left, plus it moves around a lot so it makes people do that "oooo ahhhh" thing
__________________________________
Doctor D:
Thanks man! I REALLY wanted to move it and sat for hours trying to wiggle it around somewhere and it fit right in there. That greddy pipe sits up just a little bit too high and I think my hood was hitting on it before. Only prob is getting that cover off but I have a few ideas to get it off easier if it becomes a problem.
_____________________________
All in all I am very happy with how it turned out. I have had so much stuff running through my head about the whole deal and wondered how it would be when done. I did as much as I could to have a CLEAN engine bay without jeopordizing functionality. I will admit, I still want to be able to pop my hood and have people compliment it. The battery reolcation and wiring I have going on took me forever to draw up adn understand but it all works and I am thankful for that
I learn more and more about cars, my car, and mechanics in general each time my car breaks and i just take the initiative to fix it myself (also too broke to pay someone to do it haha). If I don't know how to do something, I READ READ READ and READ some more.
Yea you have to learn to do stuff yourself most of the time or else you will be paying way too much money for having someone else do something what you could do yourself. And its really hard to have low income, mod a car, and have to pay someone to do it. Especially since a lot of cases ppl over charge or dont do stuff right the first time.
Hell, ive had too many instances since ive been driving- different shops screwing me over and stuff messing up; therefore might as well do it myself and break my own stuff for free ya kno what i mean..
Id ditch the air fuel ratio gauge, and i dont think the manifold should crack because of header wrap unless its trapping moisture or something somehow, im not sure on that but ive heard of something like that before. Even then, if it lowers under hood temps and saves your hood then its worth it. A manifold is easily welded or replaced. I have a shiney heat shield from sbr that sits on top the stock heatshield, works wonders, if you dont have a cold air intake ( which is a great mod to do on our cars believe it or not.) then your filter will heat soak badly and after like 90 degs or so the ecu will pull timing 1 deg. Then like after 106 it will pull another deg... Most people with intakes in stock position, their IAT's can be up to like 130degs easily, when I did my cold air my intake is always ambient temp. Big difference in power consistency and even gained a 2psi spike from it; another lb/min of air flow probably....
The knock buzzer is great, if every dsm had one thered be less broken down cars.lol Id have to ask my friend what parts he used for the buzzer and maybe i can find part numbers, but its a simple trip to radio shack for the most part. When i find out everything more specifically ill pm you about the buzzer.
Hell, ive had too many instances since ive been driving- different shops screwing me over and stuff messing up; therefore might as well do it myself and break my own stuff for free ya kno what i mean..
Id ditch the air fuel ratio gauge, and i dont think the manifold should crack because of header wrap unless its trapping moisture or something somehow, im not sure on that but ive heard of something like that before. Even then, if it lowers under hood temps and saves your hood then its worth it. A manifold is easily welded or replaced. I have a shiney heat shield from sbr that sits on top the stock heatshield, works wonders, if you dont have a cold air intake ( which is a great mod to do on our cars believe it or not.) then your filter will heat soak badly and after like 90 degs or so the ecu will pull timing 1 deg. Then like after 106 it will pull another deg... Most people with intakes in stock position, their IAT's can be up to like 130degs easily, when I did my cold air my intake is always ambient temp. Big difference in power consistency and even gained a 2psi spike from it; another lb/min of air flow probably....
The knock buzzer is great, if every dsm had one thered be less broken down cars.lol Id have to ask my friend what parts he used for the buzzer and maybe i can find part numbers, but its a simple trip to radio shack for the most part. When i find out everything more specifically ill pm you about the buzzer.
__________________
Officially Dsmless...
"America remains one nation, under drugs, indivisible, with perceived liberty and sickness for all." - Shane Ellison
Officially Dsmless...
"America remains one nation, under drugs, indivisible, with perceived liberty and sickness for all." - Shane Ellison
Last edited by Black_Bullet; 12-11-2007 at 07:36 PM.
Well, like I said, I am probably going to get one of those SBR shields since they are fairly inexpensive Been thinking of something to help those IATs out though for sure. Eventually I am going to ditch the body kit and all that shit for OEM stuff. I know people have been using their passenger side fog light hole to start as a duct for air routed to the intake. A/F ratio gauge stays...like I said...just something to fill the hole that was like 25 bucks haha.
Definitely see what you can come up with on that buzzer if you don't mind. I will be on like 20psi for a little while so I am not TOO worried about destruction, not saying that it won't happen
One thing I am dead set on is getting an Evo8 ecu in my car though. Just a project on the side I want to do and I know it can be done
Definitely see what you can come up with on that buzzer if you don't mind. I will be on like 20psi for a little while so I am not TOO worried about destruction, not saying that it won't happen
One thing I am dead set on is getting an Evo8 ecu in my car though. Just a project on the side I want to do and I know it can be done
Get ready for random Misfire !
__________________
R.I.P. Kevin "Slo-Si" Gonzalez
Hondata saves lives
S300 and K-Pro tuning 813-433-3721
Crome OBD1 Editing/Chipped ECU's/Wiring/Track Setup
Prayoonto/DSS/Precision/TiAl/JE/Eagle/PPG/Supertech Equipped
R.I.P. Kevin "Slo-Si" Gonzalez
Hondata saves lives
S300 and K-Pro tuning 813-433-3721
Crome OBD1 Editing/Chipped ECU's/Wiring/Track Setup
Prayoonto/DSS/Precision/TiAl/JE/Eagle/PPG/Supertech Equipped