I will get a log posted in a couple hours... I took it out this morning and it seemed to run incredibly well, I just forgot to actually save a log.

The only "issue" I see that I can't figure out is that my CEL came on. When I scan for DTC's through the ECMLink interface it returns none.

I also tried to connect up my OBDII scanner device to my laptop, and it doesn't seem to be able to connect to the ECU... kinda wierd.

I'm wondering if it may have something to do with my coolant temperature that i set in ECMLink? If I somehow set it too low, will that make the CEL go on? What other causes could there be?

 

I think the CEL is programmed to come on when there is too much knock.

 

Correct.

In addition it will also come on once the coolant temperature exceeds a predetermined value (selected by user).

 

First off, the CEL was apparently on for the coolant temp... I raised it up a bit, and problem solved.

Also, attached is the log it just took (cruising). I can see there is def. some work to be done on this, so any help would be awesome!

Due to the max file size.. I had to cut a large chunch of the log off.. so let me know if this won't do.

Thanks again!

 

Can someone help me on this log? I did a 3rd gear WOT log, and really have no idea what to do now to make it better.

Some things I notice is that my AFR seems to be a bit rich... but i'm not really understanding how to lean it out a bit.

I'm also getting a bunch of knock, but not sure if that knock is that big of a deal or not..

ALSO, the biggest issue is that if you notice around the 5300rshared_pm and 5700rshared_pm points of the pull, things take a bit of a dip.. this was VERY evident during the pull as i could hear the car stutter at those points.

HELP! lol

 

Before you go any further get your coolant temps under control, that should be the #1 priority right now. The ECU is already pulling 2 degrees of timing to protect itself from the abnormally high coolant temps, not too mention all the knock thats going on as well. Activate Fans Full on under the Misc tab and go from there. Look into getting a lower temp thermostat or removing it all together if you have a good stock/aftermarket fan setup. If you keep doing WOT pulls with the way the car is tuned right now the head gasket will eventually give-way. The Check engine light should of been on the second you went WOT, from the knock value set on the Dash controls, this is basically very similar to the Idiot light for the oil pump letting you know oil is very low. When the dash light is on make it your duty to find out why its on, and FIX THE PROBLEM before you cause more damage.

 

I agree with you about the coolant temp... that didn't even occur to me.

I did another run with fans on, and the weather was a bit cooler out this morning, so the temp values look pretty good on this pull.

I actually have a ducted hood enroute (being shipped) this week, so that should def help with the heat issue. Also as soon as I get a chance to rip my front bumper off, I need to build / install some ducting from the FMIC, since I'm positive thats the root of my problem with disrupting airflow.

The car does "hiccup" a few times during the pull, and I have no idea why. You can kinda see it in the log during the 3rd gear pull where the rpm's actually take a little dip before picking back up... any advice on this?

Also, needless to say, I'm not really sure where to go from there to tune for WOT... so any suggestions / help would be awesome!

 

I thought I posted about your coolant temps being too high, but i guess i forgot to hit reply lol. The coolant temps are much better.

As for the WOT tuning, First thing is get your A/F's in line. Then once that is done you can start on your timing. The knock that's there now may be rich knock so it may very well go away. If it doesn't all you have to do is just retard the timing by however many degree's of knock retard your getting.

Also you may want to turn your coolant CEL down to around 210 or so just to be safe.

 

So that leaves 2 quick questions then..

First, with regards to getting the A/F's in line (I know this will sound like a stupid question), but do i want to do that with the Airflow Sliders, or the Fuel Sliders?


And Second.. any thoughts on why i still get the couple hiccups during a hard 3rd gear pull... it amost feels like the car looses all power for second, and i can hear it in the engine/exhaust when it happens. I'm not 100% sure its fuel cut.. but I'm having trouble believing thats what it is since i have 750cc's on there and ECMLink is configured properly for that... but i could be wrong.... Its also wierd to me because if i keep my foot on the gas, after the second of power loss, the car seems to pick back up and go. Anytime in the past when I've hit fuel cut... there is no picking back up of the engine to push you faster.. thoughts???

Also, as an additional note, I didn't have this problem at all with the 450cc's and stock ecu in the car.. so i know its not a mechanical/electrical issue.

 

I cannot open up your specific WOT log you just posted after you claim your coolant temps are better, its a good start if thats true though. Id check the basics before going any further...it could be anything were all just speculating the problem. Do a boost leak test, check the plugs/wires, maybe even close the plug gap some. The DA table/OLMA are way too rich to use for a stock tune I see yours isnt adjusted at all, but im not sure what load cells your currently hitting since I cannot open your most recent log. Adjust the fuel sliders, leave the airflow sliders alone "for now" until you start running higher boost.