Agreed. Ethanol is a funny fuel. It takes quite a bit more then normal to make it detonate even in unfavorable conditions compared to other "race fuels". It appears to me that the tune had way too much timing in it and caused the rod to snap due to extreme cyclinder pressure. Just because your able to add more timing without detonation when using Ethanol doesn't mean it's safe whatsoever. The fact that it completely failed during cruisnig really means nothing. The damage was definitely made during WOT and just happened to completely fail during cruise after substantial damage was made.

 

WOW... that sucks. try a another tuner next time.

 

The rod bent when the crank came back around and hit it and turned the piston slightly sideways you can see the hit marks, if the rod was bent first wouldnt i have noticed.... besides i highly doubt the rod bent and broke under normal driving conditions. For the logs yes i have over thirty from saturday night i was running 6.5degree full timing advance i have extremely low knock threshold to save the motor and the car was tuned conservative on pump and e 100 cause we were running out fuel. I never took the car past 8k and you can clearly see the pistonS dont have the slightest sign of any kind of detonation on the top or sides of them. As for misfire the car has never once in its life hiccuped i was not running a stock ignition either, if it doesnt ignite the fuel you will see lean on the gauge cause it doesnt read raw fuel also it would show more engine noise in the log.

 

I don't see any actual metal on metal dents on the rod that could have been caused from the crank. It just looks like it bent and snapped under pressure. You appear to only be giving bits and pieces of information as if you are being very selective about it. Your peak timing that you are claiming was run alone doesn't tell us the whole story. How much boost were you running and how big of a nitrous shot? AFR's? If your sincerely interested in pinpointing the exact issue, actual logs would definitely help....

 

If i was really making 8 or 9 hundred hp i can understand it breaking but running 27psi on 80 shot with pump and e100 is very unlikely. As for my setup im using 850cc primary injectors and 1 1650cc injector in the charge pipe that sprays E100. The shot is wet with standalone fuel system that uses e100 also its tuned independently with the nitrous modifier map on the aem. As soon as i figure out how to put a log up i will haha. but besides that these rods are supposed to be able to take anything you throw at them.... But just maybe it couldn't handle nitrous on top of 27 psi so i pushed the power to far that doesnt mean i assembled it incorrectly or it was tuning problem.

This is not the only time i have ran this setup people that know me know i have ran the same setup on my talon for over 20k miles on eagle rods and the car still runs to this day.

As for metal you cant see is due to the poor clarity of the pictures. but say your theory is true then the new question is how does a 1k hp rod bend with ZERO signs of cylinder wear no detonation no frozen or broken rings and no frozen or broke wrist pin.

you cant tell me you these rods are weaker then my stock size wrist pins!!!

 

I believe you that there was no sign of detonation as I am very sure that detonation was not any sort of cause for your failure. As stated before, Ethanol is a very funny fuel as it takes a hell of a lot to make it detonate then any other "race fuel". This is why your tuner was able to add timing very easily to your setup when you switched over from Methanol.

Now as I was trying to explain in previous conversations, because of the very high knock resistance of Ethanol, you can push timing far past MBT without even seeing a hint of detonation. You are also not making any more power when doing this as well, all you are doing is creating dangerous amounts of cylinder pressure that will bend and or snap a rod exactly as you have pictured at the top of this thread. With this type of failure, you will most likely not see any sort of abnormal cylinder or bearing wear. Sorry to say, all you did was prove my point in our previous arguments in a very expensive way. Hopefully next time you will be more open to listening to people who have already pushed far past what you have instead of being thick headed and telling others "you just don't understand".....

 

vtec hit way to hard....

 

im not using straight e100 im using as an injection BTW. your telling me the 3 or 4 degrees timing advance i gained broke this 1k hp rod?? but the excessive cylinder pressure didnt smash a bearing or hurt the wrist pin but seemed to break the strongest part on the inside of the engine hmmm. This is a tough one to believe because if we through to much timing at the car it would start picking up more engine noise and if we ran it with to little timing it would pick up more engine noise.

Im not trying to be a dick on this thread either im just sharing my story with other people and getting opinions.

Anyone else want to vouch for this

 

As for the e100 running too much timing yes I do know this and my tuner knows this but you only experience this problem when using straight E100 and the car must be ran on a dyno so you know where peak power is. So you dont keep throwing timing at it and start loosing power

But your not understanding is im running my 850cc injectors at 100% duty cycle and have a 1650cc injector spraying that is divided over 4 cylinders thats around 410 cc each cylinder now im not a math wizard but i know this would be be around 100 or so octane and majority of it is still pump not e100 so believe me it can detonate.

Like i said before im running 6.5 degree timing advance you can not tell me this is too much timing at all!!!

 

beat me to it!

Dam neons.