Rebuilding my sr20det (500hp)

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Old 11-08-2008 | 10:30 PM
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There are easier and less expensive ways to make 500whp, - the SR motor.
Old 11-08-2008 | 10:33 PM
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Well I don't want to make those 500hp a "cheap" way if that's what you mean? I would like to get it done right... and don't have it blow on me after a week. Thanks
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Old 11-08-2008 | 10:36 PM
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By the way I was just looking around and got me thinking... is there going to be a noticable difference if I was to go max boar and get 90mm pistons and place some sleeves in the block? vs the 86.5mm I ordered which I can cancel if I was to change my mind like till Monday? Thanks
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Old 11-09-2008 | 08:04 AM
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A Darton sleeved 90mm block is going to be really pricey. There are certainly benefits to going 90mm/2.2L. Earlier spool, more torque/horsepower, etc. Its one of those things that's going to kick your spending into overdrive. I wouldn't sign up unless you have some serious cash burning a hole in your pocket.

Any ideas how you're going to put 500whp on the ground yet?
Old 11-09-2008 | 08:58 AM
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A shop will charge me quite a lot to have the sleeves put in right? I'm still thinking of what I can do for the budget I have while I have the engine apart. I think I'll just take my time on this and do it right... I found the sleeves for about 350 online.
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Old 11-09-2008 | 12:29 PM
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dear e-mechanic,

u ignorant fuck...
lemme give you cliff notes of what we are trying to say

a 1342 4 cyl is naturally balanced
a 8 weight SR crank is one of the best oem balanced cranks

if u spin a crankshaft along its center line w/o a assembly it will spin true past 9500rpm

the amount of potential energy converted to kinetic as you increase boost and rpm increases linearly... this is a "dynamic" window as it is CONSTANTLY CHANGING.

therefore...

a lighter assembly will allow increased rpm and pressure because the amount of centrifugal force is less in the "OPERATING WINDOW" of the assembly than a stock one

why do you not understand this ??

your error in logic is that you think that there is some kind of constant... NO... the fucking thing spins and accelerates which makes the force applied DYNAMIC.. and the counterWEIGHTS are CONSTANT.


dont come on here with that e-thug mechanic attitude... we have seen your type on here posting links to "motor building theory".

I have a stable of customer cars that I have built over the last decade that will absolutely put you and your balanced cranks in their proper place.


martin
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Old 11-09-2008 | 01:00 PM
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Yea for the idiots arguing with martin your really stupid. We should have a comparasing agianst the cars you supposly build and martins cars....I already know who's the winner!

OP Good luck on your building...more advice i wouldn't daily it unless your on pump, low boost the whole way
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Old 11-09-2008 | 05:27 PM
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to add, i have seen more v8's with balanced cranks than 4 cylinder engines. i think epstein's post made me remember this. alot of 4 cylinder engines have that usual firing order that helps keep things pretty simple and doesn't place as much emphasis on having a crucially balanced crank/rotating assembly. it is a nice touch to do if you're already throwing a shit ton of money at the car.



personally, i have to add, that i agree with tim's statement as well. i would much rather have a car that isn't maxed out and does somewhere between 350-420whp. beyond that, you're going to be fast and "badass"...i guess...but you're going to start running into issues of control and severe traction issues, no matter if you're going straight or turning. i always used to laugh at honda guys because the old plan years ago was to just make a billion horsepower and hope you hook up in time to reel them in (supras too lol).
Old 11-09-2008 | 06:17 PM
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That is the only manifold that I come across...
Peak Boost Stainles T3 Top Mount Manifold : SR20DET

Its way over my budget but what I'm wondering is is it worth it? Was really in the hope not to spend more then 400-500 for a manifold but no matter. Thanks
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Old 11-09-2008 | 06:39 PM
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The biggest power gains when going top mount are
1.exh manifold
2. cams
3. plenum

I would stick a peakboost or full-race on a setup before doing anything else if $$ is a factor. this is worth every penny..

here is proof...

stock cams.. stock intake plenum... injectors z32 and a romtune.. random t3/t4 57mm... pb manifold... 378 rwhp...

i am uploading video right now.


martin
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