The correct way to build an s14.

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Old 02-08-2009 | 06:45 PM
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4x5 sheet of 18ga steel, electric metal shears, mig welder, 5" grinder/cutting wheel, sawz-all, drill w/ misc drill bits, 36" sheet metal brake, 12" roller stand, hammers, pliers, tape mesure, tape, poster board, seam sealer, body filler, rubber truck bed coating, patients.

I think that about covers every aspect of it.
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Originally Posted by Epstein
Either way you're required to do it Tampa style. $1500 kit still gets $4.99 rattle can paint job. Bonus points if you use 2 different colors of gray.
Old 02-08-2009 | 06:48 PM
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thank you
Old 02-08-2009 | 06:51 PM
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Sure thing, look up "freddy the GM powerd S14" or something like that in the advance 240sx section of Freshalloy.com, it should be on the first or second page. Thats who I copied off of. His build is 2003892003209232 times nicer than mine, and he documents the tub fab better than me.
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Originally Posted by Epstein
Either way you're required to do it Tampa style. $1500 kit still gets $4.99 rattle can paint job. Bonus points if you use 2 different colors of gray.
Old 02-12-2009 | 02:48 PM
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Small update, I got all the wire stuff in today. Its nasty out so I only got around to mounting the remote terminal blocks. I'm running both + & - leads up to the bay then I will make leads to the proper places. I'm not going to ghetto ground the batter to the trunk. I'll also be placing remote jumper terminals on the shock tower so I dont have to dig around my trunk if I need to jump start. Also got around to a little filler work.

Pics:



Also got these and some other paint supplies in the other day

No the most expensive guns on the market but they sure as hell are better than harbor freight crap I've been using.
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Originally Posted by Epstein
Either way you're required to do it Tampa style. $1500 kit still gets $4.99 rattle can paint job. Bonus points if you use 2 different colors of gray.

Last edited by longfellow2; 02-12-2009 at 03:01 PM.
Old 02-12-2009 | 04:35 PM
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nice stuff! get some clear head light lenses dude, itll freshen the front end up nicely.
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Old 02-12-2009 | 04:39 PM
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sweeeeeeeet.
Old 02-12-2009 | 05:09 PM
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be sure to dump that charcoal canister hardline that runs down the driver frame rail. byah
looks good man.
Old 02-12-2009 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by longfellow2
I'm running both + & - leads up to the bay then I will make leads to the proper places. I'm not going to ghetto ground the batter to the trunk.
Why do you consider grounding it in the trunk to be ghetto? Just wondering..
Old 02-12-2009 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by IThaJokaI
Why do you consider grounding it in the trunk to be ghetto? Just wondering..
I've seen some ghetto set ups. It not always so, but I've known a few people who have had serious issues with just grounding the battery in the trunk, then running a ground from the engine to the chassis. I dont want to have to worry about my ground system being insufficent.
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Originally Posted by Epstein
Either way you're required to do it Tampa style. $1500 kit still gets $4.99 rattle can paint job. Bonus points if you use 2 different colors of gray.

Last edited by longfellow2; 02-12-2009 at 06:16 PM.
Old 02-12-2009 | 06:08 PM
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mines grounded in the trunk..ive nvr had a problem...
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