The correct way to build an s14.

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Old 02-12-2009 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by longfellow2
I've seen some ghetto set ups. It not always so, but I've known a few people who have had serious issues with just grounding the battery in the trunk, then running a ground from the engine to the chassis. I'm dont want to have to worry about my ground system being insufficent.
In my rx7s, I drilled a hole in the hatch. Found a nice spot on the frame, and grounded it there. Then just popped a grommet on the hole, never had an issue with grounding. You really just have to make sure its a good contact, and seal it so rust doesn't start.
Old 02-12-2009 | 06:18 PM
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What did you ground the motor to? The OEM - lead on 240s goes from battery to frame to motor with one wire.. I dont like having the motor not grounded to the battery.

Anyways I like over kill.
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Originally Posted by Epstein
Either way you're required to do it Tampa style. $1500 kit still gets $4.99 rattle can paint job. Bonus points if you use 2 different colors of gray.
Old 02-12-2009 | 06:19 PM
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i found a threded hole in the trunk and just scuffed off some of the paint to show the metal and bolted down my ground..shouldnt have to worrie about rust unless you have a leaky trunk lid plus its gonna cost you 80 bucks or more to run both power and ground to the front..theres no point
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Old 02-12-2009 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by longfellow2
What did you ground the motor to? The OEM - lead on 240s goes from battery to frame to motor with one wire.. I dont like having the motor not grounded to the battery.

Anyways I like over kill.

i made a short ground that goes from the motor to the frame for the engine ground
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Old 02-12-2009 | 06:25 PM
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50ft of 2ga was $75 and I'm only using 30ft of that and the rest of the terminals are not that expensive. Anyways I never said it wouldnt work because it obviously does or the wouldnt sell off the shelf kits that way, but I dont want the chassis being the intermintent ground between the battery and motor.

Another reason I'm running both to the front is I'm doing remote battery terminals on the shock tower.
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Originally Posted by Epstein
Either way you're required to do it Tampa style. $1500 kit still gets $4.99 rattle can paint job. Bonus points if you use 2 different colors of gray.
Old 02-12-2009 | 06:26 PM
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With the front, just find a big bolt hole. Get a nice clean bolt, clean up the threads and the threads in the hole. Put a ring on the wire, and ground it like that.

I think on my last one I used the bolt for the sway bar mount, on the frame.

My 929 is the same way, batter - frame - motor. But as long as your rear ground is good as well as your front, you're fine.

And just like he said, its gonna cost a lot more to run a full 0-2awg ground up front.
Old 02-12-2009 | 06:33 PM
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i guess if you have the wire do it but i just think its unnecessary to do it that way plus its extra wire you have to run and worrie about..its ur car tho..cars lookin great btw
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Old 02-12-2009 | 06:34 PM
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Its not as expensive as most people assume, and I think this is the correct way to do it, so spending a few extra dollars to do it my way isnt going to kill me.

I dont know why running one more wire would make it that much more of a hassle.

Anyways If the weather clears up I might be able to paint the bay sunday.
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Originally Posted by Epstein
Either way you're required to do it Tampa style. $1500 kit still gets $4.99 rattle can paint job. Bonus points if you use 2 different colors of gray.
Old 02-12-2009 | 06:36 PM
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oh and i spent maybe 30 relocating mine with fresh 2g wire and terminals

im not sayin ur doin it wrong, ur doin it one correct way
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Old 02-12-2009 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by quicsilvia
oh and i spent maybe 30 relocating mine with fresh 2g wire and terminals

im not sayin ur doin it wrong, ur doin it one correct way
Yeh I am with him, either way you do it is A right way. I just always found it to be more of a hassle to have the extra wire to run, and hide. But the car is coming together great man.



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