I've got some used 17" azenis laying around somewhere. 225/255. Make offer.

/threadjack

 

Haha thanks for that I didnt feel like explaining. But to further that argument, I've jacked the car up multiple times with out the core support on and there is no difference. If you notice I have the fender braces to help with lateral twisting and a strut bar to tie in the shock towers and a front bumper/support which ties in the front two frame rails so the car is completly braced, much more so than factory. Now please tell me why the very thin peice of stamped sheet metal is so very important to the structure of the car other than what Epstein said?


My rear tires wore down to the metal with in 2.5 months and my fronts are still on the car but being used as roll around wheels and they are way past being useable.

 

now u just gotta get around to ripping that engine harness apart and splitting some of the branches so you can tuck it under the intake manifold and such. do it! (best part is having the injector harness area clean, and moving those inline resistors (giant bulge in front of the upper timing cover) back in the harness to clean up that run.

you could even go RDM style and run the dizzy stuff around the back of the head and up along where the valve cover and head meets (it won't get that hot when you're n/a - heat wrap works wonders).



are you going to run a shorty passenger side intake or do you run the long stock style?

 

I'm not going to bother tucking all this crap. I done plan on having this motor very long. I'm just going to clean up the existing harness so it looks nice but thats about it.

Sadly the fusebox takes up the entire passenger space so I have to run a factory style intake. I'm just using an e-bay intake pipe with a what ever filter right now. Its surprising how much room those tubs take up, I think I lost 2-3 cubic feet of space. I have a loooong way to go before it gets cleaned up. I want to get it driving first then I'll go back and tidy everything up. But I want to keep the harness as simple as possible with this motor. Once I do a V8 set up I'll relocate everything and hide all the unimportant stuff.

Power steering cooler arrives today so will go in tonight, I need to install the driveshaft and shifter, bleed the brakes and clutch and it should be ready for a test drive.

Hopefully my seat rail ships out here soon as well, I want to test out my recaro as well. Then I have to finish stripping the FN's and send them out to get polished and the new Nitto's put on.

After that I'll paint the car and just enjoy driving it for a while before I do anything else.

 

Motor is pretty much finished. Thanks to Epstein for dropping by and figuring out the small issues with the motor I have to replace the knock sensor and adjust the distributor (off 1 tooth), but other than that its pretty solid. I took the car for a spin today during lunch and it feels pretty good. No power untill about 3k then it kicks in and pulls good for a KA till a 5k where I'd shift. I'm guessing once the timing issues are taken care of it should even out.

I have a e-gay intake on the way so I can hack it up and make it fit, I have the over fill bottle ready to go in the car when the intake arrives (stock intake is too long). Power-steering cooler set up is on and put together rather well IMO. Very simple and clean installation. I got lucky and made use of some existing mounting points for new brackets to hold the lines. I Have some other parts arriving with over the next few weeks to tie up most of the little stuff. Recaro should be installed by next weekend, and I'll be putting the last of the interior back in the car tonight.

I need to finish moving the wires around for headlights/turnsignals/horn because evreything has been shifted over thanks to the relocation of the fuesbox. That will be finished up in the next day or two. After that I plan to modify my old home made exhaust and fit it onto the new mid pipe.

Wheels wont be sent out for polishing for atleast another 2 weeks but they will get done as soon as I get the chance.

I'll be painting the core support this weekend and that will finish off the "bay."

I still need a new hood and bumper. Once I find those I'll probably send the car out for paint by the end of may. So begining of june the car should be completly back together and ready for some auto-X events.

I'll snap some updated pictures tonight or tomarrow, though the car looks pretty much the same as it has for the last few weeks.

 

To fool the knock sensor, put a 1M ohm (that's 1 meeelion ohms) resistor across the 2 terminals on the engine harness side. Disconnect the sensor side. Done. 1M is what people normally use. If that doens't work, 250kohms is what the sensor actually reads...

 

Awesome, I was hoping you would know how to bypass that. I'll try plugging in the spare knock sensor tonight and see what happens, if that one is shot as well then I'll try the resistor trick.

 

My mysterious sensor did end up being a knock sensor. Sweet!

 

thanks epstein.

 

You busy saturday? I have a day off I can stop by and check everything out. Let me know.