Oh yes it was!!! lol

I used adaptor that was made here in SRQ that uses the 1uz bellhousing and r154 trans, no 1jz bell, no 7m bell.

 

and btw just in case no one else noticed those are slide throttle carbs. at WOT there is no butterfly in the intake tract.

 

Heard of barrels, but not slides. Cool stuff!

 

I have slide carbs on my old honda motorbike.

 

why isnt this thing doing burnouts on my fucking face you motherfucker?

 

How much do you have into the whole swap? Looks very very tempting.

 

kneed to head exhaust!!!!


the odds and ends on this swap get pricey, as does the fabrication, but if you or your freinds can help you out on some, and you choose the cheaper routes... you can get it running for a decent price. its never going to be your best dollar for hp swap, but its not always about that

 

basic breakdown

engine 300
trans 400-600(i had a spare so free)
headers 110
metal stock for mounts, headers, catback, misc.. 200
metal stock for adapter plate 100
drive shaft 360
flywheel 160
clutch kit 350
machine shop labor 600
trans parts 250(throwout, jeep parts)
custom PS line 85
clutch line 50
speedo converter(converts the cable drive to electronic)

I did all the welding, fab work at home on the miller sd180 tig so that cost was zero as well

i went the extra mile on alot of things though, ie:
denso iridium plugs
all new seals on valvecovers
rear main seal
all new toyota injector clips
cleaned all injectors
blitz intake
greddy temp gauge
greddy oil pressure gauge
TRD thermostat
dakota digital tach and speedo adapters to use oem cluster
aluminum DS instead of steel
used tundra ebay headers instead of modded oem ones
aeromotive FPR with all AN fittings for rails


You have to make mounts for the trans and engine, also you have to extend the shifter housing and shift rod on the trans by about 3.5 inches, and custom weld a shifter to put it in a good place. The driveshaft was made by dependable in clearwater. PS line is a hybrid between a parker hose half and half the oem twincam line. The return line is just high temp pushloc.
Clutch and flywheel have to be redrilled from oem specs to fit the 1uz, but its not bad at all. New oem toyota flywheel bolts are used as well. HDR series act pressure plate and 6 puck was originally used but i got my hands on that cusco...
Wiring is straight forward as usual with the complete removal of all the auto trans and emission wiring from the loom. it slims down the harness to thinner than an sr harness. I kept the primary o2 sensors and removed the after cat sensors. Chassis wiring was not modified at all but i did add 2 relays to the engine harness to properly turn on and off the FP circuit and the main harness power. I also added a realy for the starter as the 240 starting circuit did not always drive the starter that well( click..click..like bad starter).
Results
With the factory 4.08 rear gear the car is very quick shifting with the r154 gearing. You can run through the gears all the way to 4th in about 5 seconds and you are doing well into 80-90mph range. City driving is the best result. you dont even have to give it 50% throttle to get to 45mph in a big hurry. you can seriously start in 3rd and the engine doesn't even sweat it. 200ft/lbs at 1oooRPM is great for an everyday car. I would like to try a q45 3.58 rear gear just to see how it feels, but i think the 408 is perfect(that trans had a 4.10 rear in the jza70 as well..) for how it makes rapid acceleration so easy on the engine.

The bottom line is sure you could have an easy 400whp SR or KAT but you still have no bottom end TQ, and that is why i did the swap. I could have kept the s14sr in there and just built it and put another 2871 on it and had a faster car, but I wanted a FUNNER car and this certainly foots the bill. Plus I was getting really tired of the smaller engine being really stressed out making that power and ultimately failing. I would think that by the end of this year it will have a cobra blower on it and be making about 400 to the wheel and even more TQ, but for now this is just great.

Other upgrades i have on the way

SPL V2 front tension rods, cooling ducts rear SF collars
wilwood 13" quad piston forged dynalite calipers and drilled rotors
setrab oil cooler(already have, waiting on greddy thermo) and greddy thermo

 

oh and when you drive it you get one of 2 looks
what the fuck
fuck yea

plus big engine in little car is a great feeling.

 

i wanna do long tubes but cant seem to find a flange.. any ideas?