So we've finally gotten everything back from the machine shop & the work was excellent as we expected:

The block was bored & honed cylinder matching the pistons, The crank was too far out of spec and was not able to be machined so a replacement was purchased and machined within spec.

The Bottom end was fully blueprinted and balanced (balanced rotating assembly)

You can't see in the card below how much it was off: initial spin .vs. final spin











Arp mains & rod bolts:





New rear main seal / installed:





yeah the good stuff lol:



Arp Head studs / installed:









Stay tuned as we move onto the head and it's specs in the next post!

 

Awesome job guys keep up with the good work...

 

beautiful...

 

So moving on, The heads received similar treatment:

-Lightly decked to ensure it flatness (good seal)
-3 angle valve job
-JWT valve springs & retainers
-Valve lash adjustment re-shimmed
-Cams journals line bored to correct our scouring problem
-New valve seals..etc...







To aid in the breathing process some Jim wolf technology (JWT) 261 cam's were added into the mix:



Old vs New:





And our assembly begins:

 

Thanks Guys!

 

nice build/write up.

 

love these kinds of build threads.
you can see it happening step by step.
makes you really appreciate the work to go from beginning to end.

 

I didn't know that Engine Lab could line hone the cam journals. There you go, SR20 people who F-up the cam cap order.


I've built a couple motors and I understand the what and why of clearances and strengths. My question is, why does everyone use ARP head studs, mains, and rod bolts on NA builds when they're only ever going to achieve a 20% increase in power and likely a lot less of an increase in peak cylinder pressures? On an NA VQ, I don't think I've ever heard of rod bolt failures, lifting the head, or whatever the failure mode is for mains. It seems like a big "check out my laundry list of parts" ego thing, and I'm not trying to call anyone out for it if that's the case. Nissan sells stock fasteners for dirt cheap and they don't seem to fail, so why bother?

Nice build, though! This makes me want to extend my (economically) unhealthy modding habit from the SR20 days and work on my Rev Up. And oil consumption spares are cheap, too! I'd definitely go Wiseco again.

 

I always assumed it was a combo of "Cool parts list" and it being about the same cost as the OEM ones.
Seems like have the time you can find aftermarket parts that perform as well, or better than OEM for the same price or less.

 

No ego involved all the parts are necessary anyone who knows Alex & knows what hes been through with this Engine(s) knows he wants to do it right while he's in there, Paired with the fact that the studs are minimally more expensive like Empire stated the real question would be why not?

In addition to that he'll be prepared incase he gets bored and decide nitrous on top of that. High compression + Nitrous = Very high cylinder pressures.