My last car cracked 200 to the wheels on the motor with a less aggressive setup so I am hoping to see some good numbers on this build. I went with a G20 due to the double wishbone front suspension and I got a killer deal on this car from a friend of mine who garage kept it since day one. One owner cars are always nice. The doors don't rattle and shake when you shut them, the Ac is ice cold and the car is immaculate in and out.

96 G20
Factory Five Speed
No Sunroof
ABS
LSD Trans
Leathers and Full Power
Pretty cool factory package.

So far what is done.
Koni Yellows with custom spring rate Ground Controls(750kg front, 650 kg rear)
Stillen strut bars
Progress rear sway bar
Energy Master Bushing Kit
P11 front brake upgrade. 11 inch Power Slot rotors with Hawk pads
Stainless braided lines on all four corners
VRS 2.5 Stainless/Mandrel bent exhaust system. V band flanges were used instead of the regular two bolt flanges. I absolutely hate lining those bolts up.
Cusco Subframe brace. Probably one of the only ones in the United States.
17x7/17x8 Bronze 5Zigen FNO1RC wheels. I got a really good deal on them so I had to pick them up. I need to find some 215/45/17s for the rear though. These 235s are way toooo big.
I am sure I am missing some things, but here is what is about to go in the car.

I will post up as I pull the engine out and do the swap. Only thing holding me up is this heat and I am super busy with jobs as of late.



2003 Nissan Sr20VE
ASP header
N1 Camshafts with N1 valve train
Calum ECU
Greg V pulley kit
N1 oil pump
Greddy MSS to switch over the VVL for me. I ran it on my last setup and loved it.
Greg V Clutch package with JWT 8 lb flywheel.



Before front brake upgrade

After. There is a significant difference in the different years.

Gotta show this

 

in for results and more details on the new motor setup nice car

 

The SR20Ve is Nissan's closest engine to the K20 power wise. It is a 2.0 with Vtec essentially. Variable Valve Timing with Lift Control. Works just like VTEC but he have two solenoids. One for intake and one for exhaust. Factory spec is something like this, intake kicks on at 4700 and exhaust kicks on at 5400. I made the most power with them both set at 4700 on my last setup. They come from the factory with around 190 hp and 150 ft pounds of torque. This setup is going to require a little more dyno time than the last car though. It should move out pretty good. Give me a month or so to get the motor in. Hopefully it will cool down a bit in the days.

 

Are you touching the block or leaving it stock

 

Leaving it stock. This is going to be a daily driver with Ac and all. I drive my car down to the Keys and need it to be as reliable as possible. I am not going to crack into an engine with 15000 miles on it. These engines have pretty high compression for what they are. 11:1 area.

 

Lol i wouldnt either you know what they say if it aint broke dont fix it

 

instead of driving it to the keys... drive it up here to roanoke! you know the mountain roads are where that car needs to be!

p.s.... my sig is suuper old hahaha

 

car looks really good.

 

Thanks, I am kinda thinking about letting it go to someone else though. I have a lot going on and don't really feel like finishing it.

 

Baller ass header. I have a reverse megaphone ASP on my car also