Taking Over This Kouki Project

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Old 08-26-2012 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mewantkouki
I'm pretty sure that tiny ground is one of the alternator grounds. The wiring that was all cut up under the dashboard (black wire with yellow stripe etc.) is for the aftermarket temp gauge that was in that car and the POS alarm. I had the same exact car alarm in my Zenki and I told Frank he'd be better off removing it before it broke completely. lol The siren used to work intermittently, then it got to the point where it wouldn't let me use the key to start the car and I ended up having to push start it to get home... Needless to say it came out later that night.
Yea I actually unplugged the alarm and cut some wires one day we got stuck in the car, it cut the ignition .. I figured he would've removed the alarm but he just rolled with it like that for awhile haha. So that black/yellow 12 or 10 GA wire runs to the ignition connector. I don't think it's for the temp sensor? I actually didn't have any wiring in my engine room harness that ran to a connector for that temp sensor. The had flex-a-lite fans when I originally bought it, I'm wondering if that sensor is just some kind of switch that ran to a relay for the e-fans to kick in, and not for a gauge. The car never had an aftermarket temp gauge until Frank bought and installed the pro-sport. I'll have to go through my old pictures from when I pulled the motor and see if there was any connector ever plugged into it ...

I also think that tiny ground is for the alternator too haha. I'll try to remember to post up when I find out for sure.


As far as removing the alarm, now that's gone I want to get something and at least not make it easy for these thief scumbags..


Originally Posted by Jr_SS
That blue ecu looking plug connector is from the Automatic control computer... All auto cars have it, I have it in mine as well. That particular ecu is removed when you do a 5speed swap.
Ok that's good to know, I guess when I get to that harness I'll be removing some more wire! Thanks
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Old 08-26-2012 | 05:42 PM
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So it turns out that I had nothing plugged into these 3 connectors at the back of the fusebox. I assume it's either emissions relates or autotransmission related. There was a black/yellow 10 or 12 GA wire (I believe the same one I was talking about above, that runs to the ignition switch) that ran to a connector that had a jumper in it that I was kind of confused about .. seemed like a waste of 10' of wire ...

Anyhow, here's some more wiring I got to remove:




And here's the final pile of removed wiring, relays, and connectors. I figured out which relay was for the fog light and got to remove quite a bit more of wiring along with the white connector at the bottom left that plugs in somewhere near the SMJ connector.




Here's the wiring leftover after shortening everything that ran from the cabin out to the fusebox:




All the wiring ziptied off towards the top is stuff I have removed ... I need to figue out a way to de-pin the SMJ so I can remove what's left here:




Here's all that remains of my fusebox. There's some wiring I can remove from the distribution block to a few fuse holders but they seem like a pain to remove




Here's the whole engine room harness that's left. I actually need to finish my ground wiring but I haven't decided where I'm going to ground stuff yet so I'm waiting on that part.




What is this unit hanging down in front of my clutch pedal? The crappy alarm that was installed has some wire taps running to this, or it may have been wiring related to my turbo timer??




Also some more wiretaps to clean up, I'm guessing this was for the alarm to detect doors/trunk opening ..




Can't wait to get this project moving along!

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Old 08-26-2012 | 06:23 PM
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That Black box looks to be the smart entrance control unit, basically your factory keyless entry/alarm, but I could be mistaken.
Old 08-26-2012 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Jr_SS
That Black box looks to be the smart entrance control unit, basically your factory keyless entry/alarm, but I could be mistaken.
Ah ok that makes sense too. I didn't know these cars had keyless entry lol. I guess I'll have something else to remove!



I forgot mention in my update post earlier. I need to look into getting some wire to run to the starter and alternator to the distro block. Anyone have a suggestion for local wire this size? I'm thinking of running a 4 or 8 GA wire out to the bay and tie it into both the starter and alternator wires.
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Old 08-27-2012 | 02:21 PM
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You can probably get good wiring from a local audio/alarm place if you want the big thick stuff.

That black box is part of the door lock system and stuff. Keyless, IIRC. All cars came with a lot of the "higher model" wiring I've found...which would've been nice to know early on, I would've rather paid Nissan to get OEM keyless over some tapped in aftermarket crap. If that box is keyless, I know I ditched it. I remember it clicking when I locked the doors, so may want to make sure it's not just part of the door locks as it is - it might be needed then. (Maybe the smart box that unlocks doors automatically if you try to lock them when a door is open and the ignition is on).

otherwise, looks good.

I'd say it might be useful to use the stock grounds - they're pretty good. The two grounds behind the headlights for most of the lightning, and there's a ground behind the stock fuse/relay block that gets used. I think I might have used some holes on the strut tower and those worked well too if you wanna try to hide them back a little.
Old 08-27-2012 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by dan
You can probably get good wiring from a local audio/alarm place if you want the big thick stuff.

That black box is part of the door lock system and stuff. Keyless, IIRC. All cars came with a lot of the "higher model" wiring I've found...which would've been nice to know early on, I would've rather paid Nissan to get OEM keyless over some tapped in aftermarket crap. If that box is keyless, I know I ditched it. I remember it clicking when I locked the doors, so may want to make sure it's not just part of the door locks as it is - it might be needed then. (Maybe the smart box that unlocks doors automatically if you try to lock them when a door is open and the ignition is on).

otherwise, looks good.

I'd say it might be useful to use the stock grounds - they're pretty good. The two grounds behind the headlights for most of the lightning, and there's a ground behind the stock fuse/relay block that gets used. I think I might have used some holes on the strut tower and those worked well too if you wanna try to hide them back a little.
Actually I believe I read in a fusebox relocation thread on Zilvia that the box does control the power locks as well as the rear defroster and something else too which I'd like to keep. So I guess I will need to keep that wiring.

I can't use the stock grounds because I'm not planning on using this Zenki upper radiator/core support ... however I could easily add a couple ground bosses to my tubing. I will loose the ground on the passenger fenderwell too when I cut that out (and replace with larger tubs possibly) so I will probably make a new ground point either behind the strut or down lower cross from the oil filter location.

That's a good point about getting wire from an audio place, I'll have to look into it. Thanks



Where oh where to put the battery. I was thinking behind the passenger seat. I'm going to ditch the back seat and I plan to ditch the carpeting and everything else behind the front seats (I want at least a 4 point cage back in there) so I was thinking of putting a battery box where the rear seat was directly behind the passenger seat. I guess I could put it in the trunk, but that means more wiring and more weight away from the CG.
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Old 08-27-2012 | 05:54 PM
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get a smaller battery. put in trunk. even if sealed, i don't like the ideas of batteries being in the cabin. plus, they're so much easier to deal with in the trunk.
Old 08-27-2012 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by dan
get a smaller battery. put in trunk. even if sealed, i don't like the ideas of batteries being in the cabin. plus, they're so much easier to deal with in the trunk.
I guess either way I'll have a big cable running through the cabin to my new distro block location and another to the starter/alternator. I guess it would be a pain to get to with fixed-back seats and a cage in the back seat area ...


Next question, how to connect a cable running from the battery to the distro block .. I could put a terminal on the end and bolt it to the factory location, but I was thinking of hardwiring it together or using some kind of connector, if there is something reliable enough that will be able to handle these wire sizes:

(the two white/red wires that are crimped to the 1 terminal closest to the camera in this picture)



Annddd another question, how to connect wires from either the battery directly, or via the distro block at the same location discussed above, to the 2 power connections for the starter and alternator. Also, 4 GA or 8 GA wiring should be used from the battery to these (as well as to the distro block above)?



------


Some pictures to follow up from my last update:


This is the row of connectors that originally was attached to the backside of the fusebox. The one on the far right is the one I talk about previously with the "jumper". One of the wires running into it is a 10 or 12 GA black/yellow that comes from the ignition connector near the steering wheel. I believe the other side of the connector is the same size/color wire that runs to the starter. I feel like I should ditch this connector and just hardwire the wires together, what is the point of this connector and jumper? I assume from the factory there isn't a jumper wire there??

Anyhow, the other 3 connectors and there wiring have been 'deleted'




These two connectors run to the subharness and I believe they are for the starter and alternator.

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Old 08-30-2012 | 03:17 PM
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So It's coming along. I'm going to run the wires and plug everything in to make sure my lengths are correct (especially for my grounds because the rest should be factory length), then I'm going to loom it all up.




Also some follow up from previous posts. The 3 connectors I deleted from the back of the fusebox were all automatic transmission related wiring.

One of the mysterious connectors I removed was for the windshield washer pump, I threw the reservoir out a long time ago so I had forgotten about it.


Tonight I'm hoping to tidy up the in cabin bits, connect my battery and then test everything! Stoked! haha
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Old 08-31-2012 | 08:00 AM
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i meant to tell you those 3 connectors were all auto related. i typed a post and i think i got sidetracked at work lol.

good luck, it's looking good.



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