Well, if you don't plan on having your battery up front, then that terminal I speak of is useless. However, GM's and some other cars came with a insulated terminal that mounted to a fender/firewall/what have you that was a post style connection. You mounted the piece to where ever it was you wanted it, then connected other power sources to it. It's almost like the connection in the fuse block and it has a "dust cap". I'll see if I can find a picture of it.

Something like this... Stud Type Junction Block

I have not finished my relocation as of this date. I'm still waiting for my sleeving supplies to arrive so I can finish it up. I have not gotten as indepth with the wire deleting as you have yet, but that will come as I start to finish it up. With that said, I believe some of the wiring is different because of the model year difference, even though our options are the same. My car is a 95' SE, AT, Non-ABS...

BTW, that edge in your fender well that you spoke of, some cut it, some beat it, others bend it. It's strictly your decision. I'm fortunate enough that I don't have to touch mine.

 

Yea that "junction block" is exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks!

When I was going through and deleting/shortening the wires, I wrote down all the wire colors and indicated where each wire went (from steering column harness to SMJ, from SMJ to fuse xyz, etc). I was going to put it all in an excel spreadsheet, if you want I could send you it so you can have it for reference. Like you said I'm sure there are some differences but you could hang onto it just in case. I could've used something like it, but instead I happen to know the person that bought Frank's other car (the 98 auto) so I had to look over his car a couple times to figure out what some of the connectors were for.

Is that fender pinchweld structural at all? I'll probably just end up bending back that 5" section of it that the tire could come into contact with

 

Bending that 5" section back isn't going to hurt the chassis, cutting it out and not welding a piece back in might cause some issues though. You can send the info to me if you'd like, however I have an FSM and I've been using that to do all the wiring thus far.

 

Yea that's what I figured about bending it .. I'd rather cut the whole lip out and have it welded flush but that metal shouldn't ever be visible anyhow heh

Yea I assumed you're using an FSM but it doesn't hurt to actually have the wire colors/pattern and which connector the wire goes to. The crappy pictures of the connectors in the FSM don't do it for me, also nowhere could I find wire colors, how many pins a certain connector has, what each pin of the SMJ is for, or even a damn diagram of what the fuses in both fuseboxes are for...

 

if you're feeling frisky, you can pull the entire hardline for the charcoal canister and the canister from the back passenger side if it's not already gone. there is a vent line for the gas tank...i ended up poking it through some hole or something in the chassis where it was tucked up under there but still open to vent. i know there was a long technical freshalloy thread about it years ago, i never had gasoline come out of it, and most others didn't. some guys put a little mini breather filter on it, but it does nothing. i think if you cap it, you sometimes get more "pressure" release when opening the gas cap. (kinda like the breather on top of a riding lawnmower tank being opened/closed)

 

Yea actually I did the same with my Miata but it did have fuel come out of it on super hot days (only a small amount would kind of splatter out every so often). With it capped I would have a lot more pressure release when I undid the cap too. I guess at some point I will remove it or at least the hardline running to the bay, and leave it to vent back in the trunk area or something.

 

So thankfully today I found out that my turn signals do work! Up until today I haven't tightened the SMJ connector bolts ... for some reason today I thought of tightening them and to my disbelief, the turn signals worked haha


I did some test fitting of both sets of fenders I have, neither of them seem any wider than stock oddly enough .. even if they are wider, I'd still need another 15~20 mm to fit these wheels with the +20 spacers, so I need to look into getting new fenders or spacers or both

 

i remember depinning the ECU and SMJ connectors. the ECU ones were easy once you figured out the tabs. the SMJ ones were hell. i remember having to make sure they are tightened up correctly and that they're going in straight/aligned correctly, had one that always wanted to go askew when putting it back on.

 

I actually didn't de-pin the SMJ for the engine room harness yet, however I could de-pin at least half of them from stuff that was removed. I wanted to wait and make sure everything I expected to work is working beforehand you know? How do you de-pin them btw?

 

Fuckin awesome. Can't wait to see how it progresses.