Taking Over This Kouki Project
https://www.tamparacing.com/forums/n...build-s14.html
If you decide to tub the front end, I tried to document the steps I took when I did it a few years ago. If you have access to a mig welder and some basic pneumatic tools you can knock it out. Same goes for tube frame core support and crash bar.
If you decide to tub the front end, I tried to document the steps I took when I did it a few years ago. If you have access to a mig welder and some basic pneumatic tools you can knock it out. Same goes for tube frame core support and crash bar.
__________________
Team White Car 2010
Team White Car 2010
https://www.tamparacing.com/forums/n...build-s14.html
If you decide to tub the front end, I tried to document the steps I took when I did it a few years ago. If you have access to a mig welder and some basic pneumatic tools you can knock it out. Same goes for tube frame core support and crash bar.
If you decide to tub the front end, I tried to document the steps I took when I did it a few years ago. If you have access to a mig welder and some basic pneumatic tools you can knock it out. Same goes for tube frame core support and crash bar.
Mind if I contact you with questions I may have?
UPDATE
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So I had been going back and forth with deciding what to do with the front, but after finding what all I have access to I think it's a no brainer. This post is a tool related post, with some of the stuff I have access to. I might waste some material until I get it right, but I'm pretty confident I can just do it all myself.
Now all I need to figure out is what size tubing I want, and ERW, DOM, or Chrome-Moly (anything I missed?) and how extensive of a tube-front I would like. The only tool I am missing to do the job right is a tube bender. However, I found a decent deal on a Protools bender, or I may just buy a new one since they're local. I'm justifying the cost in that I will be able to make a rear crash bar, and cages for both the S14 and my Miata (and crash bars for it as well).
I'm wanting to hear from you fab guys on what you think about these tools and if I need something else (or better). Thanks!
My grandparents have an awesome 3-bay shop, and here's what I've found
The welders
Welder #1 - wirefed DC 120v. Works pretty good, I did some spot welds for some practice.
Welder #2 - AC 240v, I'm not exactly sure how this one works .. the rod/stick is clamped in the gun I guess??
Welder #3
Supplies! The booklet was published in 1965 lol
Metal cutting bandsaw
Enco bench drill press
Parts wash and Harbor Freight hydro press (used this in an earlier post to twist my intercooler back to shape lol). The parts wash is great for cleaning the guns, on a side note
Big lathe from my great grandfather
Little lathe
Mill
andddd by far my favorite tool!
----------
So I had been going back and forth with deciding what to do with the front, but after finding what all I have access to I think it's a no brainer. This post is a tool related post, with some of the stuff I have access to. I might waste some material until I get it right, but I'm pretty confident I can just do it all myself.
Now all I need to figure out is what size tubing I want, and ERW, DOM, or Chrome-Moly (anything I missed?) and how extensive of a tube-front I would like. The only tool I am missing to do the job right is a tube bender. However, I found a decent deal on a Protools bender, or I may just buy a new one since they're local. I'm justifying the cost in that I will be able to make a rear crash bar, and cages for both the S14 and my Miata (and crash bars for it as well).
I'm wanting to hear from you fab guys on what you think about these tools and if I need something else (or better). Thanks!
My grandparents have an awesome 3-bay shop, and here's what I've found
The welders
Welder #1 - wirefed DC 120v. Works pretty good, I did some spot welds for some practice.
Welder #2 - AC 240v, I'm not exactly sure how this one works .. the rod/stick is clamped in the gun I guess??
Welder #3
Supplies! The booklet was published in 1965 lol
Metal cutting bandsaw
Enco bench drill press
Parts wash and Harbor Freight hydro press (used this in an earlier post to twist my intercooler back to shape lol). The parts wash is great for cleaning the guns, on a side note
Big lathe from my great grandfather
Little lathe
Mill
andddd by far my favorite tool!
The Lincoln AC welder can be used for aluminum right? Might come in handy in the future.
Good to know, thanks! I assume you mean welder #1? What about the other Miller, I called welder #3 in the post, it looks newer but also I imagine it's less powerful since it looks portable.
The Lincoln AC welder can be used for aluminum right? Might come in handy in the future.
The Lincoln AC welder can be used for aluminum right? Might come in handy in the future.
Welder 1 and 3 are the same, just 3 is newer and a little better. They're both portable, 1 is just on a roller stand and has a tank hooked up to it. I'd actually swap those around.
If you're mostly doing thin sheet metal or thin wall tubing (22ga-18ga) .23 wire is best. Anything under about 16ga and .30 works. I usually use 75/25 (argon/c02) and solid wire for mild steel.
As far as what type of tubing, it doesn't really matter unless you're making a cage any mild steel tubing will work. I usually use 18ga tubing 'cause its easier to work with and I gusset if I need any real strength out of it.
One thing you should look into buying if you're working with tubing is a decent tubing-notcher and a couple of high tooth bi-metal hole saws.
__________________
Team White Car 2010
Team White Car 2010
Last edited by LongFellow; 09-15-2012 at 08:33 PM.
A spool gun to weld aluminum needs to be run off a 220v welder, the 110v welders I've found don't have enough ass behind them, not to mention they are messy, lots of slag and hideous welds. As longfellow stated, if you need to do any aluminum welding, tig is where it's at. I'd use #3 if it were me, just make sure you get the right gas/wire for what you intend to weld.
Stick welding is for structural items, i.e. railing, heavy gauge metals, items like that. A trick I've learned on using a wirefeed welder is if you're welding thicker items together, slow your wirefeed down if it doesn't have adjustable amperage. This will let you build up more heat and have a nicer weld. You'll most likely have to weld a small area, let it cool and repeat those steps, it is extremely easy to get impatient, so take your time. Before you weld anything, practice on pieces of similar items you intend to weld. Engine bay sheet metal, or sheet metal on 240's in general is thin and you can blow through it quite easily, ask me how I know...
Stick welding is for structural items, i.e. railing, heavy gauge metals, items like that. A trick I've learned on using a wirefeed welder is if you're welding thicker items together, slow your wirefeed down if it doesn't have adjustable amperage. This will let you build up more heat and have a nicer weld. You'll most likely have to weld a small area, let it cool and repeat those steps, it is extremely easy to get impatient, so take your time. Before you weld anything, practice on pieces of similar items you intend to weld. Engine bay sheet metal, or sheet metal on 240's in general is thin and you can blow through it quite easily, ask me how I know...